Anthony & Hera's Adventures

Our Day 12 And 13 In London

2011-08-18T18:51:00.014-04:00

British Museum and Portrait Gallery
　
Yesterday we did not start our day at Trafalgar's Square, as was our custom. Instead, we took our bus to the British Museum. A gem of a museum, that one should not miss when in London, and it is free to boot.

However, the inexpensive audioguide is well worth it. It allows you to follow several very interesting tours of the museum's collections, as well as key in any item that strikes your fancy.

Crossing the gates and entering the courtyard of the museum feels like one is entering a typical "serious" museum, like so many other museums might feel like. But once you pass through the foyer, you enter the amazing, light and airy Great Court, covered by bright translucent skylight. The curves and lines of the modern staircases contrast wonderfully against the more classical entrances to the various rooms. Like the National Gallery, the British Museum feels very comfortable and inviting. There is no stuffiness to be found here at all.

The British museum probably has one of the best collections of Egyptian artifacts outside of Egypt. The same can be said of Greek, Persion, etc. In other words, if you want to see some of the best collections, you need not travel to each country, but simply to London's British Museum.

We listened to only two of the several tours, Ancient Egypt and the Parthenon. But had we more time, we would love to return and listen to the other tours as well. We did try and quickly walk through a good portion of the museum to get a glimpse of the other rooms and collections. It is far to big to take in and appreciate in a single day.

Knowing that there was still so much more to see, we left the museum and wandered about the streets of London.

We found ourselves behind the Royal Courts of Justice, stumbling upon a deligthful pub called "The Knights Templar." I ordered Bangers (sausages) and Mash, while Hera had a Sweet and Spicey Noodle dish. Both meals were great. Among other meals, I have had the traditional Fish and Chips, Steak Pie, and now Bangers and Mash. We have also had Chinese and Indian meals. Except for perhaps one meal in a very touristy pub, the food I have had in London has been exceptionally good. And their desserts are phenomenal, and I am not a dessert person!

Pubs are still very much part of the culture here despite all the changes. After work, it seems everyone comes over to a local pub for a pint, or two, or more. At the end of the work day, they are crowded, spilling onto the streets.

With the light falling, Hera decided to do some night photography without a tripod by using her Samsung Galaxy SII smart phone. We walked along now familar streets. Walked into the court of Somerset House, listening and watching its waterfalls that have a choreography all their own.

Walking further, we were once again at Trafalgar's Square. We did not start our day here as we commonly did, but it is hard not to find oneself here time after time.

We peered down the Mall at Buckingham Palace, and then walked along Whitehall towards the House of Parliament. Big Ben sounded the time as we admired the tower that holds it, along with the rest of Westminster Palace. We walked across Westminster Bridge towards the London Eye, then turned around and made our way back home.

　
Hera had wanted to see the National Portrait Gallery, so that was where we were headed today.

We took our familiar bus to Trafalgar Square once again, and walked into the National Portrait Gallery. Once again, it is free, but it is well worth using thier audioguide.

The National Portrait Gallery, as the name suggests, houses the portraits of notables, mostly paintings, but photography as well.

The top floor starts with the Kings and Queens, and the great personages of Court. As one walks along, we continue to see the images of Royalty, but those of the Sciences and the Arts start to appear as well. I knew so many by name, it was great to place a face to them as well.

Further along, we meet more contempory people like David Bowie, Sir Paul McCartney, and Mick Jaggar.

With rain starting to fall, we found a comfortable pub, and chatted away as we had a pint. Part of appreciating a city, includes these moments of rest. Making like a local, and just enjoying the moment.

Rested, we were back onto the streets.

One place that we kept passing day after day was Hamleys Toy Store. A five story toy store that has been delight children of all ages for over 250 years, and I can see why. It was such a joy to make our way, floor after floor, as kids squeeled in glee, and demonstrators demonstrated the various toys. Even Hera became enamoured in several of the toys, but we left, buying only a few delicious sweets.

We continued our stroll passing store after store, walking into a few now and then, before we decided it was time to make our way back home.
　
Photographer's note: All the photos in this particular Blog post were shot with a Samsung Galaxy SII smart phone, and re-sized for the web. You can click on each image to see the details and the image quality.

Cheers,

Hera & Anthony

Our Day 10 Ad 11 In London

2011-08-16T17:23:00.004-04:00

National Gallery, Chicago and St. Paul's Cathedral

Yesterday was a long and full day.

I have always been told that London is expensive. Yes housing and transportation is relatively expensive, but I cannot say that I have really found that London is expensive. Especially when you consider that so many wonderful museums here are free.

Yesterday, we decided to visit the National Gallery (no photos allowed inside).

Once again we made our way to Trafalgar Square wher the National Gallery is located. There is no entrance fee, and it is a real treasure. Had I more time, I would revisit this gallery several times, as there is way too much to absorb in one visit. The Audioguide is well worth the small cost. We followed the recommended printed tour that took you around the gallery to see some of the highlights. But the audioguide will discuss any piece of art you see, just key in its number and listen, something we did do when particular paintings struck our fancy.

From Botticelli to Van Gogh, and everyone in between. With over 60 rooms filled with paintings, one could easily spend a day fully appreciating a handful of rooms at a time. And with free admission, if you had the time, you could in fact do this.

What I most liked of the National Gallery, was that it felt comfortable. It does not feel stuffy and high brow. It is airy and very friendly, bringing high art, down to earth for everyone to enjoy and appreciate.

After a bite to eat, we were off to the Cambridge Theatre to watch "Chicago."

We had seen the movie which is based on this musical. We had considered several other theatrical works playing in London, but decided on "Chicago." We were not disappointed. It was a fabulous performance.

We regularly attend theatre back home, and I cannot understand why people do not attend theatre more often. If I could have people watch the "movie" and then the "performance" of "Chicago," I am sure I could convert many to attend live theatre more often. The movie is excellent, but the live performance is exhillarating. One cannot emotionally connect to a movie as one can connect to a piece of live theatre.

Again, had we more time, we would love to attend even more performances.

We crossed the street and entered a pub as we talked about the great show we had just enjoyed. Late at night, we made our way home on bus 23 as it rained.

Today, we were off to St.Paul's Cathedral. (Again, no photos are allowed inside.)

St. Paul's is in many ways the heart of London. This is the fifth cathedral to be built on this site since 604. There was a Saxon Cathedredral, then a huge Norman Cathedral that was the largest in Europe. By 1666, this Norman cathedral was starting to fall in disrepair, and the King hired Sir Christopher Wren, who had never built a building in his life, to be in charge with its restoration. Soon thereafter, the great fire of London in 1666 not only burnt down the old Norman Cathedral, but most of London itself along with most of its churches. While not an architect, Sir Christopher Wren at 33 was already accomplished in a multitude of fields including astonomy, physics, math and medicine. And his ability to get along with others, and organize people, convinced King Charles II that Sir Christopher Wren was the right man for the job. And he did not disappoint.

St.Paul's Cathedral is his crowning achievement, building what is the fourth largest church in the world. Although it is huge, it also feels warm and intimate, which demonstrates the genius of Sir Christopher Wren. He did not want the average man to feel small in the house of God.

The iconic Dome of St.Paul's that is characteristic of London's skyline, is another example of how he wanted to create something grand, but still keep the people feel they are within reach. He created a dome within a dome. The inner dome feels grand and high, but it still feels within reach as one looks up. However, he realized that "big" was a matter of perspective, and for an onlooker from the outside, and taller dome was needed for it to feel big and grand. Thus the outer dome is for the benefit for someone looking at the church from the outside, and the inner dome is for the benefit for someone inside the church.

St. Paul's Cathedral is also iconic for London's more recent history. During WW II London suffered the German bombings, then the Blitz. Once again, the area here was more or less levelled, and while the Cathedral did get some direct hits, it stood tall amongst the rubble. Defiant against Hitler, St. Paul's kept standing bravely, like Londoners did, and the rest of England.

St. Paul's is also where Nelson's and Wellington's tombs are located. Blake's and Florence Nightingale's tombs are also located here.

We did spend more time here than we had expected, as has been true for most placed we have visited in London.

Taking a quick ride in the Underground, we got out in a shopping area that we passed daily on our bus route. Hera found a couple of outfits, and though we could have spent hours more if not days, it was time to go home.

Photographer's note: During these two days I carried only my new smart phone Samsung Galaxy SII. In other words, I was free of any other camera. All the photos you see in this Blog were shot with my smart phone, edited in smart phone. Amazing, isn't it? They were only re-sized for web and my signature was added in PhotoShop. I love few of the applications I had bought prior to this trip. One of them being HDR. HDR actually shoots minimum 2 shots, like a true HDT shot. You have to hold the smart phone without moving away from the composition. Then you have several other bottons to adjust the final touch.

The photo below is an HDR happy mistake. I moved the camera during its second layer. Voila. Amazing isn't it? It created a dimentional illusion. Yup, it is my feet on a patterned floor.

Cheers,

Hera & Anthony

Our Day 9 In London

2011-08-14T18:33:00.000-04:00

Cabinet War Rooms and the Churchill Museum

Yesterday was a writeoff.

Hera awoke feeling nauseated, and then vomitted several times that morning. We spent the day at home resting.

Today she awoke a bit shakey, but she wanted to go out. So we headed off into town to see the Cabinet War Rooms. Hera was not too sure about it, but knew I wanted to see them, and in the end she agreed that it was worthwhile.

World War II was a pivotal time for the London and the British Empire. For centuries, the two super powers France and England vied and fought with each other for control of the world. But soon into the war, France signed an armistice, leaving England alone to fight off Hitler. Russia was still an ally of Germany, and the USA was trying to remaing neutral.

The Cabinet War Rooms gives us a sense of life during this time. Like the fire of 1666, London was leveled, with the exception of St. Paul's Cathedral that remained standing. Below grounds, people lived and worked fighting the War. The tour takes you through several of the rooms, with interactive displays that are entertaining to us, and extremely informative.

Part of the tour includes the Churchill Museum. Most people know of Churchill, but there is so much more to the man, and the museum does a wonderful job in bringing him back to life. From childhood photos with a lock of his hair, to various radio speeches as one walks under them. His political carreer as well as his military carreer. Again, the interactive nature of it all adds to the fun.

Atfter the museum, we again found ourselves meandering through part of St. James park before we spilled onto the Mall, and looked back towards Buckingham Palace. We walked across Trafalgar's Square and into the streets of Soho.

After refreshing ourselves with some food at a pub, we again hopped onto our familiar bus 23 towards St. Paul's Church, as we wanted to cross over the Millenium Bridge.

Built as part of the millenium celebrations, it was know as the "wobbly bridge" when it first opened, as it wobbled when people walked on it. It was briefly closed, as it was stabilized further. Today, it is a lovely pedestrian bridge that lets one walk easily from St. Paul's across the Thames to the Tate Modern Museum and Shakespeare's Globe.

We walked around the Globe and made our way back across the Millenium bridge, and soon took our bus 23 bus back home.

Hera is still not in top form, but is much stronger today.

Cheers,

Hera & Anthony

Our Day 7 In London

2011-08-12T17:59:00.001-04:00

Westminster Abbey

As the plane circled over London, Hera asked me if there were any important cemetaries near London. I replied, that the most important was Westminster Abbey itself. And that was where we were headed for today.

But we had to do some shopping first. Hera had forgotten her small external hard drive at home, and this old lap top has a tiny 60 Gb hard drive, that quickly fills with her photos. So we quickly went on-line, found a computer store, and headed there first, and picked up a tiny external 1 Terabyte hardrive.

Getting about London is quite simple. I cannot stress how important it is to learn and use the transit system of whichever city you visit, and London's system is very efficient.

During our day, as well as throughout our visit, we have noticed how polite and helpful the citizens of London are. "I'm sorry" is often heard for even the mildest bump even in very crowded quarters. It is very sad that this very polite city and nation is being portrayed world wide in such a negative light with the recent riots.

I do hope the ones responsible for these crimes are not only caught and punished, but I hope that they are also forced to "pay back" the full cost of their actions. I would go even further, and add that they should have to wear a "dunce cap" for at least a year.

Getting to Westminster Abbey a bit later than we had hoped, we had to wait a bit in line. But it moved fast, and soon we found ourselves inside this magnificant place.

Like the Tower of London, Weminster Abbey too recounts the history of the nation.

God had told King Edward the Confessor to visit Saint Peter's in Rome. Worried about the French Normans who were threatening invasion, he decided to stay home and build a church (minster) dedicated to St. Peter, west of London, thus the name Westminster. Not obeying God is dangerous in itself, and the Normans did invade. The French Duke conquered the Island and crowned himself (William the Conquerer) King of all England here at the new Westminster Abbey.

Unfortunately photography is prohibited at Westminster Abbey as well as in many other places in London, like the Crown Jewels yesterday.

Since William the Conquerer, this Church has been the site of the coronation of Kings and Queens for the past millenium. The simple wooden coronation chair can be viewed here. It was construced to sit atop the Stone of Scone that the English King Edward I took from Scotland. The Stone of Scone has an even older history, and meant much to the Scottish people. A 2008 movie called "The Stone of Desitny" (another name for the Stone of Scone) recounts the true story Scottish students trying to bring the stone back home. In 1996, the British government decided to let the Stone return back home to Scotland, as long as it can be borrowed for future coronations.

Westminster Abbey is also the final resting place of many monarchs. King Edward the Confessor is here, as well as Queen Elizabeth I who lies over her half sister Queen Mary I, and across the way from her cousin Mary Queen of the Scots whom Elizabeth had imprisoned for years and then executed.

Many other notables are also here, Newton and Darwin, Chaucer and Dickens, Livingston to General Wolfe, and many, many more.

Leaving the Abbey, we listened to Big Ben chime once again, and then walked along Whitehall to Trafalgar Square, then onto the lively Soho to find a pub for a refreshing drink.

Photographer's note: The photo above of The Big Ben was shot with a 20mm Lumix lens. The photo below was shot with Samsung Galaxy SII smart phone.

Cheers,

Hera & Anthony

Our Day 6 In London

2011-08-11T19:11:00.002-04:00

Tower of London

Today was our day to learn the Underground. We could have taken a scenic tour across London with the bus, but this morning we wanted to get to our destination as quick as possible, in which case, the Tube is your best bet. A tunnel is a tunnel, but the Tube does get you across distances fairly quickly.

We were off to the Tower of London.

The story of the Tower of London, is the story of England. When the French Norman, William the Conquerer invaded and conquered Britain, he built the original Tower, now called the White Tower. King after King, with a few notable Queens, all played their parts here at the Tower of London.

Being a tourist site we expected line ups, in which case it is always best to get there early. We like to take our time, and not rush, so we expected lineups. We were pleasantly surprised to wait only a few minutes to purchase our tickets.

There is much to see at the Tower of London, but we were advised that to beat the crowds, we should go and see the Crown Jewels first. Finding the place on our map, we made our way there. We still had to walk quickly up and down the crowds control barriers, but were so happy that there were no crowds. Inside, we again had to zig zag through a couple of rooms filled with crowd control aisles. We could only imaging how tiring it would have been had we had to wait.

The highlight, is a row of cases displaying the various crowns and regalia. Two moving side walks carry on lookers either behind or in front of the case. A third walkway in front has panels describing each case and it contents. Take a first pass on the moving side walk and be amazed. Then walk back and read the panels for a deeper understanding, and then again take a moving side walk and appreciate them fully.

While the Crown Jewels might be the highlight, there is so much more to see.

We looked across the lawns were Queen Anne Boleyn among others lost their heads. Now a memorial sculpture commemorates this place of execution, as ravens alight nearby. A lone guard stands in front of the Queen's House, while other Beefeater Guards give entertaining tours and answer questions.

Next we decided to head to Bloody Tower. Walking to it we passed Traitor's Gate, the boat entrance from the Thame's were prisoners were brought in.

While the Tower of London was built as a defense and palace, it has so often been associated as a prison. If it is hard to get in, it is equally hard to get out.

Sir Walter Raleigh was imprisoned here more than once, spending 13 years of his life here. His wife, was allowed to live with him, and his son was born here. Bloody Tower gets its name because of some notable and questionable deaths that occured here. The most famous of which is the probable murder of the 13 year old future King Edward V and his younger brother. Shakespeare has King Richard III as being the one who ordered their deaths.

We next visited the Beauchamp Tower. Why it is pronounced BEECHum completely escapes me, after all, all these early Kings were more French than English. The tower held a multitude of famous prisoners, many of whom scrawled graffitti on the walls that survives to this day.

The Central White Tower was the orginal Keep, and the rest was built around it. Today, it holds the White Tower Museum. As you make your way through it, you encounter Suits of Armour, including King Henry VIII's armour when he was a fit and slim 25 year old, as well as his older armour when older, overweight, and much less fit for any real battle. Those with a military interest will enjoy the displays that demonstrate the evolution of weaponry. Also in this museum is the actual chopping block and ax that beheaded so many.

We walked along the walls of the castle, taking in the sights of the castle grounds, as well as of Tower Bridge. We also noted how large the crowds now waited to gaze upon the Crown Jewels.

The last place we visited was the Royal Chapal of St. Peter ad Vincula where the headless bodies of those who were beheaded were buried in unmarked graves. Queen Anne Boleyn is said to haunt this chapel. (She apparently is occiasionally seen in the White Tower carrying her head in her arms.)

We were surprised that we spent the whole day here, but there is indeed much to see and appreciate.

We found a pub, to rest, eat and drink. Hera ordered a typical pub grub, a delicious Indian Chicken Tikka with hot nan bread and basmati rice. London food has definitely changed.

After our meal, we took a bus and got off just before Trafalgar Square and headed into Soho. The place was alive with people milling about, and others dining outdoors, while musicians played and entertained.

Our last task of the day was to purchase our tickets for a show. We decided on Chicago, and will see it in a few days.

Pleased with our day, we made our way back home.

Photographer's note: This last shot below was shot with Samsung Galaxy SII smartphone. It is our shadow.

Cheers,

Hera & Anthony

Our Day 5 In London

2011-08-10T18:11:00.008-04:00

Trafalgar Square once again

West of Trafalgar is Parliament and Buckingham Palace. East of Trafalgar lie the various institutions of Finance and Law. Both are iconic of London, but neither reflect the typcial person. That lies North of Trafalgar.

Heading north of Trafalgar, we made our way to Leicester Square. Usually a pleasant park, it was closed and boarded up for renovations. But around here and along other various little streets lie a multitude of Theatres, the equivalent of New York's Broadway.

Capital Radio London is here as well. I still find it hard to believe that while we enjoyed the music of the British invasion freely at home, only pirate radio stations played the music of the Beatles and Rolling stones. (It is worth watching the movie Pirate Radio.) Capital Radio was the first station to broadcast such music in 1973. But it too soon became "old fashioned" and refused to play the new music of Punk that was emerging at the time.

yes, it's time for the dr. goebbels
show!

there's a tower in the heart of london
with a radio station right at the top
they don't make the city beat
they're making all the action stop

a long time ago there were pirates
beaming waves from the sea
but now all the stations are silent
'cos they ain't got a government license

wanna tell your problems
phone in from your bedsit room
having trouble with your partner
let us all in on the news

if you wanna hear a record
or get the word from Aidan Day
he picks all the hits to play
to keep you in your place all day

capital radio
in tune with nothing
don't touch that dial
(The Clash) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QfL9R2Wrhck)

Walking along, we made our way to Covent Garden. It used to be the convent garden of Westminster Abbey. (I am not sure how it lost the 'n' to become Covent.) Since medieval times, it was amarket, but produce stopped being sold in the 70's and today it is a market for lovely little odds and ends, with buskers entertaining the crowds.

Small intertwining streets are to be found in this area, filled with boutiques. Entering a little alley called Neal's Yard, we came across a colorful little nook. A saxophonist and pianist played, while others ate, and we took in the sights and sounds of the neighborhood.

Stepping back out, we came across a delicious cheese store called Neal's Yard Dairy. The salesgirl quickly offered us to sample the various cheeses. Cheese from throughout the British Isles can be found here, and the samples were all delicious. We bought three of the cheeses, a Colston Bassett Stilton, a Lincolnshire Poacher cheddar, and a Cardo-Tilleye goat cheese. We could easily have bought more.

Meandering about, we came across Denmark Street. Filled with music stores, it too has its own history. One music store called Regent Sounds Studio was where the Stones, Beatles and others recorded their music. The Kinks even made a song called Denmark Street.
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cuhPnuRVWU)

Soho came from a hunting call, but this area reminded us less of New Yorks Soho, and much more of Grenwich Village. It is a lively neighborhood, with relaxing parks, with a slight peppering of porn shops that seem to cling on.

Finding a pub called "The Crown," we sat to rest our tired feet and enjoy a pint of beer. As we drank, we read on a wall a bit of history of the pub, and it included one of Mozart's earliest performances at the age of 9.

After our beer, we wandered a bit further through the streets of Soho until we stumbled out onto Oxford Street, a shopper's paradise. Oxford streets stretches for several blocks towards Oxford Circus, filled with affordable fashion shops.

But we were headed down the next street, Regent Street towards Piccadilly Circus, filled with higher end shops.

And nearby, were the unaffordable shops, but still a joy to look into the windows. One restaurant we passed had 30g of caviar for 95 pounds, and another plate of caviar for 350 pounds. But we were not that hungry, so we kept on walking.

The police were still out in force, and I noticed the ingenious device over the laces of their boots. A hard stomp over the laces of even the strongest boot couold disable a person. The boots of these bobbies had a protective shield to stop this maneuver.

Our feet tired, we made our way back to our trusted route 23 bus, and headed home for the day.

Cheers,

Hera & Anthony

Our Day 4 In London

2011-08-10T06:09:00.000-04:00

The City

At first glance, the map of London's bus sytem seems a tangle of confused lines that meander about, turing up and down various streets. Very quickly the confusion of lines make perfect sense. Each bus line clearly identifies its terminal station, and the bus stop lists the various stops the bus makes, and the rough amount of time it will take. Once you have a rough idea of the major landmarks in London, it is easy to find a line to take you where you want to go, and connect from there if need be.

Yesterday we walked from Westminster to Trafalgar, along the path of power, political power. Today we were to walk from Trafalgar to the City, along the path of financial and legal power.

From Trafalgar we followed the Strand, a busy boulevard of shops that was once a row of elegant riverfront houses. Only one such house remains, Somerset House. As we have so often found, a small detour into it, and we leave the hustle and bustle of busy London, and find ourselves in a quiet oasis bordering the river Thames.

Just before reaching Somerset House, we dipped into the Savoy Hotel, a truly elegant first class hotel. A bit uncertain, we were reassured by the smile of the doorman as we entered the hotel to catch a glimpse of its tasteful Edwardian decor. As we left, a guest entered his porsche and drove away.

We walked past the church St. Mary-le-Strand, literally stranded in the middle of the road, as the boulvevard was expanded, and further along was St. Clement Danes church.

An impressive building soon greeted us, the Royal Courts of Justice. It is a huge Neo-Gothic complex that is open to the public. We peeked inside quickly before moving along.

Across the street, a small unassuming building, but with a very familiar name is to found, Twining's Tea. The two Chinese men on top of the doorway remind us that tea came from China, and the British brought it to India and London.

In the middle of the road is the Temple Bar Monument, that marks the boundary between London (original London) and Westminster. It is customary that the King or Queen stop here so that the Lord Mayor may offer the City's pearl encrusted Sword of State as a token of loyalty.

Stepping into a small, unassuming little street, we found ourselves in a maze of tiny streets and law ofices. The Inns of Court is a little world onto itself. Within here, a small side street led to Temple Church. The same one used in the movie the Da Vinci Code. Unfortunately it was closed today, and we hope we will be able to get back here one day to take a look inside.

Getting back onto the boulevard, now called Fleet Street past the Temple Bar Monument we soon come to St. Dunstan in the West church. Here, theology students battled the flames of the great fire of 1666, and saved the church.

Shortly after midnight on September the 2nd, a fire broke out in a bakery. Three days later almost all of London was burned down. It is estimated that the homes of 70 000 of London's 80 000 residents were lost in the fire. Prior to the fire, London buildings were built with wood in the Medieval manner. After the fire, London was rebuilt along similar roads, but now of stone and brick.

If the great fire of 1666 was not bad enough, the year before in 1665 the plague killed every sixth person in London. And once again, during the bombings of World War II, most of this area was again leveled.

Again following some narrow lanes, we came across Dr. Johnson's house and the delightful statue of his cat Hodge, and then the authentic very old pub called Ye Old Chesire Cheese Tavern. It was rebuilt in 1667 after the fire, but it was a pub since 1538. We walked inside and considered having a bite, but it was a bit too early, so we carried on.

The rebuilding of much of London was entrusted to Christopher Wren by King Charles II. His centerpiece church is his rebuilding St. Paul's Cathedral, but he also built several other churches including St. Bride's Church. It's steeple is said to have inspired a baker to make a multi-tiered cake, that has become the traditional wedding cake.

We walked up and down small little streets, and then came to the large intersection where nine streets intersect, and what an intersection it is. Standing in front of Mansion House, the residence of the City's Lord Mayor (Mayor of this neighborhood, not of all of today's London), we can see the majestic building of the Royals Exchange, the original stock exchange. Across the street is a the huge Royal Bank of England, that once loaned money to King William III, and ever since, it has managed the nation's debt.

In this area, there are hundreds of financial and international institutions.

As we walked, lawyers and bankers were leaving their offices, making their way home, or more often than not, stopping at their favorite pub. We made our way to London Bridge, and gazed over to Tower Bridge.

We backtracked through the financial district, and came across an Irish Pub called O'Neils. I had a great Fish and Chip plate, while Hera had a Grilled Salmon, and topped off our meal sharing a delicious chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream.

As we walked towards a bus stop I spied a sign in a shop window stating that all stock and money has been removed, and as we rode the bus, we noticed a shop in the process of boarding up their windows, and then many other stores with boarded windows. It is unfortunate, but the city is suffering from organized groups of youths vandalizing, looting and burning shops for the past 3 nights. I do hope that the parents of these undisciplined children are also held accountable.

Throughout these three days, we have felt very safe. But we have noticed the high police presence, and the news reports are unrelenting as they describe the riots.

Photographer's comments: Sorry for high conrast images in today's Blog. For some reason my computer's screen calibration program did not kick in upon loading, therefor it forced me to edit the images thinking that it was my fault. They all looked dull. Then the signature action got messed up. So you have a ghostly rectanglar in each shot due to this error.

Cheers,

Hera & Anthony

Our Day 3 in London

2011-08-09T05:15:00.001-04:00

Exploring a different bus route

Bus 23 is the closest and most practical bus for us. But today we wanted to explore and different route. It entailed a little walk towards the BBC buildings and a huge shopping complex called White City.

Bus route 9 leaves White City and meanders through a different section of London. Passing Notting Hill Gate, it follows the north border of Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park. Intersecting route 23 at the Marble Arch, it turns south along the edge of the park down to the ROyal Mews. It then continues past Westminster Cathedral, then it is on to Westminster Abbey and the Houses of Parliament of Westminster Castle.

Hopping off the bus, we were engulfed by the throng of tourists milling about. We made our way past them, as we wanted to start our walk at Westminster Bridge.

Westminster Bridge offers a wonderful panorama of London. Big Ben chimes away, as we take in the view. Westminster Castle dominates the view, and we can see the towers of Westminster Abbey. Behind us, the London Eye is a recent addition but is already an icon of London. Beneath us, the River Thames flows.

In the 11th century, King Edward the Confessor moved West London, and built a church (Minster) and a castle, thus the name WestMinster. The king ruled here for centuries, but slowly, as the populace wanted more say in affairs, nobles were allowed to meet, creating the House of Lords. Soon the common man too wanted a say, and a House of Commons was started, and Royalty decided to move once again.

One can feel the power that has been weilded here for all these years as we strolled along Whitehall, the road that leads to Westminster. Offices of power line the street. Downing Street intersect Whitehall, and we peered through the gates for the famous address of 10 Downing Street, home of the Prime Minister.

A bit further up the road is the Banqueting House. An impressive buidling, but with an even more impressive history. This was where Royalty lost its divine right to rule with the beheading of King Charles I. Royalty soon resumed power, but this time its right to rule came from Parliament.

Even more impressive is the knowledge that this was but part of what was once the largest castle in all of Europe. A Castle that stretched from Trafalgar Square to Westminster. All but this building burnt down.

A little bit further up Whitehall we encountered the Horse Guards. Elite fighting men, guard the entrance to Buckingham Palace. They are the Queen's personal bodyguards.

Ahead of us we could see Lord Nelson atop his column. Traflagar Square is a busy intersection that links various sections of London. Down Whitehall is Westminster, down the Mall is Buckingham Palace, and Pall Mall leads towards St. James Palace. East is what is called the City, or the old London.

After people watching a bit, we walked down Northumberland, to cross the Golden Jubillee bridge to get a different perspective of Westminster and the Eye of London.

Finding an old English Pub, we had a late lunch, and gave our feet a rest. We befriended a very pleasant family nex to us, and we promised them that we would go and see the Sherlock Holme's museum.

After our lunch, we entered the Mall with Buckingham Palace before us. But a few steps inside, and we noticed a park off to the side. St. James Park is a wonderful oasis from the hustle and bustle of London's streets. We wandered along its refreshing paths, enjoying lovely beds of flowers and brids galore. Ducks and ducklings, swans and herrons.

As we exited the Park, back onto the Mall, we came across a newly married couple. What a wonderful location for some wedding locations.

We wandered about to Piccadilly street, window shopped the impressive stores, and found ourselves in Piccadilly Circus. We darted in and out a few streets here and there, and found London's Chinatown. After strolling its streets, we decided it was getting late, and decided to have supper here.

Time flies way too fast. We found our 23 bus stop, and made our way back home.

Cheers,

Hera & Anthony

Our Second Day In London

2011-08-07T20:45:00.001-04:00

Discovering the bus

We managed to stay awake until 9pm last night, and then fell asleep soundly. We awoke a good 12 hours later. 9 am might be lated for the locals, but that is 4 am Montreal time. However, we felt well rested, fresh, and most importantly almost in sync with London time.

Our first task for the day, was to discover the local grocery store, and get some basic groceries for the week. A short walk through a small neighborhood path, led us to the corner store. Small but well stocked for our basic supplies, and sl close by.

In our apartment was a good foldout map of the bus routes for Central London, but our place was just off the map. We were told that 7, 70 and 316 buses were very close by, but I was not sure exactly where. The morning walk to the grocery store was fortuitous, as we found the bus stop for the 7 and 70 buses.

My original plan for the day was to head towards Westminster, the heart of typical London. However I came across a section talking about the East End and the Sunday Markets. The 23 bus, which I knew stopped at the nearby Underground station meandered through town and ended its route at Liverpool Street, in the East End.

One should be flexible in planning, and this change was well worth it.

The 23 bus is a double decker bus, so we headed up top and grabbed a seat. While the day had started off partly cloudly with a low chance of rain, it started to rain as we entered the bus. Soon it poured, and I made a note to myself to consider multiple plans, with options in case of rain.

We will no doubt take the tube, and underground travel is usually the quickest here, or in any other city, but if you can, always try and use the bus. What sights are to be seen in tunnels?

While it rained, we watched the changing vistas that unfolded before us. We got to the corner of Hyde Park, went along the shopping streets that Hera used to tour when she was in the fashion industry, to Piccadilly Circus, the equivalent of New York's time Square, with Theatres, flashing adds, and high end shopping. The bus the continues it way along the picturesque streets of London, passing by Trafalgar Square with Lord Nelson's Column, spying the Mullenium Bridge down a street, as the bus made its way to St.Paul's Cathedral, and then finally terminated at Liverpool Street.

Liverpool Station is a bustling station, but one of the unfortunate ones that was bombed during the London Bombings a few years ago.

This neighborhood has a surprisingly old history that dates back to Roman times when it was the burial site for the Roman city of Londinium. In 1197 it became the site of the priory "The New Hospital of St. Mary without Bishopgate." Later it was know as St. Mary Spital, and it became one of the largest medieval hospitals in England. At one point, they leased land to the longbow, crossbow and gunners (artillery), hence the names of some streets like Artillary Lane.

Henry the Eight dissolved the priory and hospital, but soon the Huguenots (French Protestants) who were expelled from France sought refuge here, bringing their silk talents making this the center for silk in England. King Charles II granted a silk thrower, John Balch a Royal Charter to hold a market on Thursdays and Saturdays.

Later Jews sought refuge from the pograms of Eastern Europe, bringing with them their culture and cuisine. Reading a historical note on the street, it mentioned how they brought their Jewish method of battering and frying fish, and married it with the local chips, to make.... Fish and Chips!

The Spitalfields Market here is defintely worth a visit, especially on Sundays when the market is in full gear filled with stalls and eateries. This is also the area of Jack the Ripper. The Ten Bells Pub, the hangout of one of Jack's ladies is here along with Christ Church.

This is also the neighborhood of London's Bangladeshi community. This is a place to eat! While wonderful restaurants line the streets, on Sundays, food stalls also abound. And near the end of the day, they drop their prices even further. We entered a food court filled with food stalls, each with thier own unique foods. From Ethiopian to Mexican, Chinese and Japanese, even a Turkish-Indian fusion stall.

For 2 and a 1/2 pounds we selected two different and delicious Ethiopian plates that were loaded with a variety of foods. Filled, we meandered a bit, and a girl at a Thai stalled enticed us to sample her food. It was delicious, so we split another coconut-Thai chicken plate for another 3 pounds.

Just a bit further, the area opens up to an eclectic street scene. A great place to people watch. One girl walking arm in arm with another girl sported a delicate tatoo on her legs that looked like fine laced stockings. And the contrast with the Muslim neighboorhood just steps away, with women fully clothed is a sight to behold. We also sampled a delicious honey covered treat.

We meandered about the narrow lanes and streets, and thought of the Industrial Revolution. Oliver Twist and jack the Ripper.

Getting late, we got back onto our bus 23 to make our way back home. We went up top, and grabbed two front seats. While I had considered getting off at Piccadilly Circus for a pint of beer, Hera was having a blast shooting photo after photo trhough the smeared glass window of the bus.

Home, we relaxed. Me with a beer, and Hera with a glass of wine.

Cheers,

Hera & Anthony

Our First Day In London

2011-08-06T15:15:00.000-04:00

We were off once again.

While we had booked the trip months earlier, and it had seemed so far away, suddenly the day to leave was upon us. Our bags packed, our good friend Frank drove us to the airport.

What a pleasure it is to fly direct. What a pleasure it is not to have to fly into the US along with the US custom controls. We checked in online, dropped off our bags, and flew through customs.

Montreal to London is a relatively short flight, but they still managed to squeeze in a supper and a breakfast. A movie, a futile attempt to nap, and we were landing in London.

Prior to leaving, we had called via Skype to book up a private cab to pick us up at a fairly reasonable price. Tired, we spotted our name on a card, and he drove us to our new home for the next 2 weeks.

It is an adorable charming little basement apartment in a very lovely neighborhood. The layout is compact and efficient with a hide a way bed. Stepping outside, is a darling little garden.

As we walked about the neighborhood, we were struck how lush everything is. A variety of flowers perfumed the air, as we noted bamboo and palm trees growing in some gardens.

Staying awake the first day is of prime importance. The day is hard, and feels excessively long, but it is the only way to quickly adapt to the time change. While it is only 5 pm now, Hera and I are struggling a bit to stay awake.

One of my big goals for this first day was to be sure I got a local SIM card, and that I could unlock my phone.

I recently purchased the Samsung Galaxy S2, a wonderful smart phone, but roaming charges from our Canadian providors are exhorbitant, and after hearing stories of how some people came home with astronomical charges, I almost did not bring my phone.

I was under the impression that the CRTC had ordered the phone companies to provide unlocking services, but I had to fight tooth and nail to get the unlocking code for my phone. They were claiming they could only unlock the phone after 30 days, at which time I would be back. I argued that such a claim made no sense if I had a 3 year contract, and that neither the contract I signed nor their web site mentioned such a 30 day delay. Finally the gave me the code.

To put things in perspective, my roaming charges would cost me $15 to $25 per megabyte. With a local UK SIM card, for about $16 dollars I have 500 megabytes. 500 times cheaper!

With my phone happy with a new local SIM card, we were off to accomplish our last goal for the day.

We entered an Underground station to get our 7 day travel cards. 2 weeks of unlimited travel costed each of us 60 pounds! Expensive yes, but well worth it.

So often I had said that to really know a city, you need to ride its transit system. There is no city like London that drives this point home. The Underground IS part of what London is all about. Along with its double decker buses too of course!

Getting our travel cards is only the first step. Over the next few days we will have to learn how to use the Underground and the buses effectively.

With our goals accomplished, we were free to do as we pleased. I had noted on the map that Portobello Market was not too far off our route, and we could have hit it first. But I new we might dally. Strolling the bustling street after we did our day's work allowed us to enjoy the street market at our leisure, albeit in a fatigued state.

Street vendors sell the various wares, food merchants sell their produce, and a variety of ethnic stalls delights the nose. We had already grabbed a bite earlier, and were nolonger hungry, but I would not be surpirsed if we end up there soon enough.

We did pick up some produce, and spying a spice store made a bee line to it to buy some spices.

Without the energy of Portobello Market, the last leg home was a long and arduous twenty minute walk. We most definitely need to learn the transit system.

Walking in, and walking home, we came across of line of bikes that reminded us of the Bixi Bikes of Montreal. Actually, they are from Montreal!

It will be an early day for us. But we did manage to stay awake and accomplish the important tasks.

For a light meal, Hera made tapas out of an Indian hot pickled egg plant spread we picked up at the Spice Shop. We opened a bottle of the chilled Australian Chardonnay that our hosts provided, along with a few other welcome home goodies.

Photographer's note: All images today were shot with Lumix GH2 and a 20mm Lumix f/1.7 lens. Except the first and last shot. Samsung Galaxy SII smart phone was used for these two shots.

Cheers,

Hera & Anthony

Magical San Gimignano & Ciao A Tutti

2010-10-08T14:15:00.006-04:00

Today we were off to San Gimignano.

While it is very easily accessible with a car, it is also very easy to get there with the bus, even though you have to transfer midway at Poggibonsi.

Midway between Florence and Siena, perched on a hill, it was a perfect stop over for pilgrims of the time, and tourists for today.

San Gimignano was once a fiercely independant town. A walled village gave safe refuge to the farmers, and the 60 odd towers within the town gave refuge to the warring families within the town. This was the time of Romeo and Juliette.

But the plague hit the town hard. Of the 13 000 citizens, less than 4 000 remained, and it soon fell into the political orbit of Florence, which ordered many of its towers to be torn down.

No longer a power onto its own, if not outright impoverished, it was frozen in time. A Medieval town, with its winding streets and remaining towers.

While there are sights to be seen inside the town, the real site to see is the town itself. Walking the streets, following a small alley here or there, and then climbing onto some of the remaining walls is the real attraction of San Gimignano.

The Tuscan country side is wonderfully seen from Rocca e Parco di Montestaffoli, the rolling hills and various estates.

Is San Gimignano touristy? Yes it is, and it knows it.

But it is well worth the visit.

So close to Florence, and it transports us to an era that is simply magical.

Photographer's note: As I mentioned before I came to this trip with a Panasonic Lumix G1, my travel lenses are a Lumix 20mm 1.7, Lumix 14mm-45mm and a 45mm200mm Lumix. I brought two 16 gig Ultra fast SDH cards, I only used one at all times. 3 batteries, but one was enough to shoot with every day. I brought my carbon fiber Gitzo tripod, I used it ONLY once. I have a portable computer, plus a tiny external hard drive as back up. I usually shoot in both RAW and high res jpg. with Lumix. I only use the jpg files to re-size for the Blog shots.

I travel with this fabulous soft leather bag. It is fantastic. Italian made off course. It hangs just across my body. Holds all my camera gear and plus,(including my little shopping escapades, sunglasses, except the tripod). No one knows that it has camera gear in it. I go everywhere with it. Including when I travel in planes.

My tripod goes always in my luggage.

This trip was very magical. I hope you all liked following our adventures. My other daily photograpy Blog http://www.myphotoramblings.com// will start back Monday October 11th. 2010. Thank you for all your support.

Ciao,

Anthony & Hera

Eating Well, Visiting Sites... La Vita E Bella In Florence

2010-10-07T14:23:00.003-04:00

Today promised to be another gorgeous day.

Needing some basic staples, we did some shopping at the local super market, but for lunch, we were headed of to see Pino once again. This time at his food store Verdi.

Around the corner from his wine shop, Pino has a food counter, where the excellent meats we had savoured the night before came from. It is called Salumeria Verdi, at Via Verdi 36 red. (http://www.salumeriaverdi.it/)

The place was very busy, but Pino smiling, called out "HeraBell" as he served a customer. We each had a sandwich, and a small glass of wine. As we ate, Hera said it was the best sandwich she has ever had, and I have to agree. Pricewise, it was very inexpensive.

This is defintely another place that anyone visiting Florence must stop by.

In addition to his sandwiches, he has other plates of food. Several different plates of pasta was offered for today's lunch, and he mentioned that on Fridays, fish and seafood are offered.

Pino was too busy with the crowds of customers at the moment, so we dropped by later in the day to pick up some of the delicious meats we had eaten the night before.

We walked about the now familiar streets.

While we often passed close by, we did not yet really see Orsanmichele Church.

The site had in the eight century, a very small oratory where miracles had occured. A merchant area was built around it, and became a grain market. After the plague that killed off half of Florence, the arches were filled in, and it became a Church, while grain was still stored above.

Niches surrounding the church were filled by various artists, commissioned by the guilds of Florence. Walking around the Church, one can see the change in sculptures from Gothic to Renaissance.

Inside, the church is spectacular. The painted ceilings and walls, and the intricately carved marble tabernacle that holds Bernardo Daddi' Madonna delle Grazie are wonderful sights to behold.

It had been a few days since Hera had a gelato, but today, it was time for one. Finding a Gelato shop is one of the easiest things to do in Florence, and soon Hera had her Gelato.

We wandered around, crossed the Duoma once again. In the brilliant sun, I find it is way too bright. I think the Duomo looks best at night, lit by lights. The intricacies of the art work are highlighted, the shadows add character, and the square feels much more romantic.

Florence is small, and easily walked, but today, we decided to take a taxi to San Miniato Church. Located south of the Arno, up the hill, behind Piazzale Michelangelo.

St. Minias, was King of Armenia, and gave up his crown to the heavenly king. According to legend, he was beheaded on the banks of the Arno. Picking up his head, he walked up the hill, where he died, and was buried.

An old church, it is a beauty. From the painted wooden ceilings, to wall paintings, to the sumptous Chapel of Cardinal Jacobo. Walking up a few steps, one enters the sacristy, and we are faced with a stunning fresco, while down below is an intimate crypt where a group sang Vespers in Gregorian chant.

We walked down a bit to Piazzale Michelangelo and gazed across the picturesque city. Hera took photos, as the sun was setting, capturing the different light and moods of the city.

As we arrived home, across the street from our apartment, an event was being held at the private club. Dressed as a Florentine guard, he exchanged pleasantries with us, as we took out our keys, and entered our building.

Florence is charming, day or night.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

The Art Of Wine Tasting at Pozzodivino With Pino In Florence

2010-10-06T17:00:00.005-04:00

Art comes in many forms, and wine is one of them.

Tonight Hera and I were going to Enoteca Pozzodivino at via Ghibellina 144 red (http://www.pozzodivino.eu/). We had been to wine tastings before, and we were looking forward to tonight's tasting.

Pino was a gracious host, as he warmly welcomed us to his establishment. Hera started taking photos. Each angle of his shop offered another glorious image. Soon two young American ladies joined us, as Hera kepted clicking away, but she had to stop, as it was time to descend into the cellar.

The place itself has a history. Dating back over 800 years, it too was damaged by the flood of 1966, and when Pino got hold of it, he had a fair amount of restoration to do, to bring it to what it is today.

We sat, eager for the tasting to begin. Pino started with offering us two samples of Balsamic vinegar aged 8 and 10 years. Most people do not realize the art and flavours in Balsamic vinegar, and usually think of it as a dark version of table vinegar.

But Balsamic vinegar is like a fine wine, aged in barrels that are changed each year. The 8 year old Balsamic vinegar was so deliciously sweet, while the 10 year old was like a syrup that could be had as a dessert on its own.

Small amounts of two different Olive Oils were also offered for us to sample and compare. And then gently mix with the vinegars. While the traditional Olive Oil and Balsamic vinegar is always wonderful, they were each so good, that I prefered having each one on their own with some bread to mop it up.

Excellent parmagiano cheese was offered as we enjoyed the Olive Oils and Balsamic vinegars.

Then came the wines.

Pino talked about the three steps in appreciating a wine. Starting with the eyes, what to look for in the wine, its color, its tranparency, and its legs. Followed by the nose, the aroma and bouquet of the wine, and ultimately the taste, its feel in the mouth, and its flavours.

What made tonight's evening so enjoyable, was Pino's animated discussion, his passion, and charm. He made sure that the evening was a social discussion amoung us all, and not a lecture. He encouraged each of us to participate, and express ourselves.

At times he would hint and prod, as we then started to realized and notice elements that we had not noticed at first, or had trouble putting our finger on.

We started with Colli di Luni, a white wine from the Liguria region, made of Vermentino grapes. Pino explained that while the grape variety is extensively grown, this caostal region in particular adds mineral and salty hints to the wine.

A generous portion of prosciutto ham was placed on our plates as we visually examined the wine, then inhaled it aromas,and finally tasted it. It was wonderful, and very unique.

Pino then encouraged us to now try the wine with some prosciutto in our mouths.

Hera and I have been to several wine tastings. And often the cheese and bread were not even served until after the tasting. This was the first time we were encouraged to have a mouthful of food, and take a sip of wine.

Amazing!

Both the wine, and the prosciutto tasted so differently. A magical transformation of the food and wine. From now on, when I taste a wine, I will always first taste the wine on its own, then try it with food in my mouth.

I had left most of the delicious prosciutto on my plate, as I knew more wines were coming. I did not expect more meat would be served, but Pino told us he had selected a different meat for each wine. He talked, and gave me some time to enjoy the prosciutto.

Next up was a red, Villa Cafaggio Chianti Classico 2007, along with another generous serving of meat, this time, a fennel and garlic salami.

I had known that Chianti was made from the Sangiovese grapes of the Chinati region. The gorgeous country side we toured when we rented a car a few days earlier. I did not know that there was a smaller region within the Chianti region, for it to be a Classico. Not only must at least 85% of the Sangiovese grapes come from the Classico region, but so must any other grapes added.

Chianti is a more aggressive wine, one that many people need some time to get acquainted with. It has a strong aroma of fruits and spices, with a delicious cherry flavour. And with the fatty salami, it made an excellent pairing.

This was followed by a Super Tuscan. Super Tuscans are wines made in Tuscany from grapes that are not necessarily originally from this region, and often follow more modern wine making methods.

Pino poured us a Brancatelli, Valle dell Stelle 2008, which is made of Cabernate Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. While these are common grapes of the Bordeaux region, the wine tasted far from a Bordeaux.

It had an amazing nose, with a wonderful aroma and bouguet. The flavours were full, delicious, and an immediate crowd pleaser. Although we were served a Tuscan salami, Pino mentioned that Super Tuscans are more a meditative wine. A wine that can be drunk alone with out food, and just a single glass. I felt I understood, as it was indeed a wine that one could sniff like a good scotch.

But after tasting and enjoying the Super Tuscan, Pino suggested we try once again the Chianti. Surprisingly, the Chianti had changed. Changed because it had time to open up more, as well as a change as our taste buds now were comparing two very different red wines.

While I loved the Super Tuscan one first sight, I felt I prefered the Chianti, and if I was to pour another glass, it would be the Chianti. Only then did I fully realized, and had to agree with Pino. A Super Tuscan is to be savoured in a single glass, while a Chianti, is one that one can drink, and enjoy more and more, as the night progressed.

Both are excellent wines. But very different, serving different purposes.

As I said above, Hera and I have attended many wine tastings, but this is most definitely the best tasting we have attended. Pino is an excellent educator, and his warm and charming personality, made the night unforgetable.

Florence is a great city to enjoy the art of fine wines. And you could not get a better experience than by attending one of Pino's Wine tastings at Enoteca Pozzodivino (http://www.pozzodivino.eu/)

La Dolce Vita... Si... Si !!!

Photographer's note: All of my shots were done in ambinant light. Which meant, hard lighting conditions and no time for any studio set-up. I had to deal with super bright spot lights placed everywhere. Several food shots were done hand held before I digged into the food. Bottle shots were done on a tripod.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

Bargello Museum Where Scupltures Come Alive

2010-10-06T06:10:00.001-04:00

It was supposed to be a very rainy day today. While it did pour heavily overnight, we have been very fortunate, and the skies were clear by morning.

We walked a bit, and I showed Hera a small plaque that we had walked by several times, but had not noticed. It showed the water level of the horrible flood that Florence suffered in 1966 when the Arno over flowed its banks. It is hard to imaging the water level being so high. Flooding so much, and then leaving loads of mud once the waters receded. Imagine the art that was damaged or lost. Imagine the hardships for the people living here.

I had been saving the Bargello museum for a rainy day, as it was only a few steps from our apartment. But with our trip soon coming to an end, we decided not to wait any longer.

The Bargello was built in 1255, and was the original seat of government for Florence, then later used as a prison. It would be worth a visit for the architecture alone, but the real treasures are the sculptures that it holds, along with other art as well.

Unlike a painting, that is looked at head on, sculpture is a more holistic experience. The material it is made of, its size, and most importantly, how it looks from various angles. Walking around a great sculpture, one can see it move. It comes alive.

Many will not know Giambologna's name, but most will recognize his statue of Mercury, that many other artists made replicas of. (photography was not allowed inside of the museum)

Also held at the museum are the orginal entries by Ghiberti and Brunelleschi as they competed for the Baptistry's doors. Both are excellent, and I would find it hard to pick one over the other.

What I most appreciated in the museum was the four seperate sculptures of David, that showed the evolution as well as the interconnections of the various artists over a couple of generations.

We first see Donatello's early David, who has a classical and impersonal feel. The young Donatello, an apprentice of Ghiberti, was sculpting in a Gothic style, but soon started to break away from his Master, and started to sculpt in a more realistic and dimensional manner.

Twenty years later, Donatello's second David, is a complete person. An individual with delicate features, perhaps too delicate, almost feminine. But this is the David that Michelangelo would admire as he grew up in the Medici's court.

The next generation's Master sculpture was Verrochio, better know as Leonardo Da Vinci's teacher. He created what I find to be the most realistic David. The nimble shepherd boy who slew the giant. Verrochio's David looks light, boyish and real.

Michalangelo has one of his early unfinished David's here. Good, but nowhere as powerful as the iconic David that everyone knows.

All too often, we see art in isolation. And artists separated from the world they lived in. But seeing pieces together, and realizing how one generation of teachers taught and influenced the next, makes it all come alive.

A museum not to be missed.

Photographer's note: I have done the entire shoot with my Lumix 20mm 1.7mm prime lens. A fantastic lens. I used it usually at 2.8mm or 1.7mm on manual mode setting.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

We Continue Exploring Florence

2010-10-05T16:49:00.006-04:00

There are a few gems in Florence that close their doors early.

When we travel, we do like to take our time. Usually we have a long slow brunch with various local cheeses, meats, tomotoes drenched in delicious Olive Oil, that we then mop up with some fresh bread. Of course we enjoy a good cafe with this.

We then tend to stroll the streets slowly, as we take in the feel of the streets and the people walking about. Nibbling here and there during the day.

Today, we changed our regular pattern, as we wanted to get to two of these sites that we kepted walking by, only too late.

One gem that closes early, is the Museum of Precious Stones. We had previously seen phenomenally gorgeous table tops and images of inlaid marble at the Pitti Palace. The Museum gives one a deeper appreciation of this type of work, and how it was made.

In laid table tops, pieces of alters, are all amazing. While so much was beautiful, what I trully appreciated were the oil paintings that were made as templates for the images to be created out of inlaid stone. And sitting next to the painting, is the inlaid image whose colours are so vibrant, and seem to glow.

Various slabs of lovely stone are exhibited, each on its own would make a great table top. To imagine that artists would select a particular shade from a particular stone, carve it precisely, and then add it to an inlaid image they were constructing is hard to believe. It is basically "painting with stone."

Nor is any one piece the work of a single artist. Instead, each piece is the work of several virtuoso experts, working in concert, to produce a single wonderful piece of art.

The Midici's loved this form of art, and it flourished. Even after the Medici's, they flourished for generations until the end of the Austrian Hapsburg-Lorraine family centuries later. No longer sponsored, they had to rely on being commercial, offering tables for a bourgeois class. While still excellent, one can see the pieces being less intricate, less complex, to keep the cost affordable for the buyer.

Many argue that the state should not be involved in sponsoring the arts. Let the free market decide. I can see their point, and there are too many examples of huge amounts of money being wasted on very questionable endeavors.

But art does not pay. Great art is not commercial. And without a patron, much of our great art of today would never have been created.

Just a few steps away, was a restaurant Hera and I had often passed by. With the hearty brunches we usually ate, we were too full to drop by at lunch, and by mid afternoon, they were closing shop. You can recognize a good restaurant, because it tends to be busy with many locals and few tourists.

As I mentioned above, today we decided to leave before our usual hearty brunch, so by 2 pm, we were ready for a good lunch.

"La Mescita Fiaschetteria" is really a small hole in the wall at Via deglia Alfani 70 r. There since 1927, Mirco and the two Allesios continue the resturant's tradition of serving delicious foods, at very reasonable prices, just around the corner from the Accademia and David.

We shared the small table with two gentlemen. They were finishing off their pasta plate along with a half litre of the house wine while we waited to order. We were not sure if someone would come to our table, or if we had to order at the counter. They noticed our uncertainty, and motioned with their hands.... "slow." Sit and wait.

Delicious looking plates of tripe were served to them, when the waiter asked for our orders.

Hera decided on the Penne Tartufo con funghi which was superb. I had decided on their Rigatoni, but by the time we were seated, it was scratched off their menu board. Gathering a bit of courage, I settled on the Tripa Florentina. I never had tripe before, but alas, when I ordered, I was told it too was all finished. The waiter suggested I have their Ragu, which was indeed excellent. Perfected cooked pasta, in a meat sauce that had subtle and delicious flavours

We ordered a half liter of their house wine, which we surmised was a medium but good quality Chianti. However, it went perfectly with our meals. Any wine of higher quality, would compete with the dishes we were having.

As we ate our meal, we slowly got to know the Pasquale and Joe. Neither spoke any English, but we managed, and had a great time. The 67 year old Pasquale worked at a nearby hotel, and Joe, who came from China as a child, runs a Japanese-Thai restaurant. We laughed and joked as we enjoyed our meals.

For dessert, we tried their Cantucci and Vin Santo. Delicious, but we did notice how the Vin Santo was different from the one we had the week before.

Pasquale and Joe were having a generous portion of cheese, and had ordered a very good bottle of Chianti, and offered us a glass. We had to take a small sip, and wash the the flavours of the Vin Santo to really appreciate the Chianti he offered us. It was exquisite, and I am sure it went perfectly with the cheese they ordered.

They offered us another glass, but we declined. The people of Florence are truly friendly people. But you also have to be "open" to others as well. Otherwise the pleasantries might stop with polite smiles after a short word or two.

As we left, there was a light rain falling, but that adds a different dimension to the streets of Florence.

In our rain jackets, we felt very comfortable as we walked, watching the tourists. We commented to each other that even though we were still tourists, we no longer felt like tourists. Feeling very comfortable with the streets of Florence.

Florence, and its people are very charming. Rain or shine, it is a delightful city.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

Discovering The Tuscan Country Side

2010-10-04T15:46:00.002-04:00

Today we were off to see the Tuscan country side.

While we had a glimpse of the Tuscan landscape as we took the bus to Siena, to really get the chance to feel and experience the country, you need to rent a car.

It is important to get an international driver's license before leaving home. It takes just a few minutes and only costs $15 at the CAA/AAA, and is good for a year. I usually get one even if I do not plan on driving, just in case I change my mind.

You do not want a car in large cities like Florence, nor do you need them for other fair sized places like Siena which one can easily buy inexpensive bus or train tickets, but to have the freedom to explore at your own pace and whim requires a car.

It is probably best to rent a car before leaving home, but yesterday we easily were able to book a car for today. We had been promised a map, but I should have bought one on my own, as the one they gave us was for the whole of Italy. Usually one can buy a good large scale map at a gasoline station, but being Sunday, they had no attendants, and thus we were left with no good map of our own.

My advice, would be to avoid touring on Sundays. Not only are most stores closed, but so are all the Tourist Information booths you will pass by on your trek.

We had told the attendant at the car rental agency that we did not want to travel on the highway, but to remain on the small roads. He suggested that as we left the environs of Florence, to look for and head towards the town of Impruneta.

At least that had us on a small road, and we kepted looking for small towns and just headed in their direction.

Fortuitously, we stopped to look at our map, and looking up noticed we were at the entrance to Castello di Verrazzano, one of the wines we had sampled at WineTown. We followed the narrow winding road up the hill, as we gazed upon vista after vista of wonderful sights. (http://www.verrazzano.com/)

But, being Sunday, unfortunately it was closed. Although closed, the aroma of crushed grapes permeated the air. We walked around the grounds, and Hera took several photos of the grounds and the views.

We made our way back down the mountain road, and got back onto our small winding country road, and headed towards the towns of Greve in Chianti then Castelina in Chianti. We were deep in the heart of Chianit region. The views are nothing but stunning, rolling hills covered in vineyards, and even in the car, we would get the occaissional whiffs of crushed grapes as we drove.

The road took us to Siena, a town we had recently visited. Lovely, but we wanted to remain in the country. I had to ask directions to get me out of Siena, but we were soon back onto a small country road, heading south towards Asciano.

Equally beautiful, this region, so close to the Chianti region we were in, is so completely different. Instead of vineyards, the rolling hills were recently plowed. At times, we would come across an unplowed feilds of sunflowers past their prime. This place must have been spectacular a couple of months early when the sunflowers were all lush and full.

Although we were close to the world famous Chiana beef region, our sights were on the small town of Montacino. The place were the exceptional wines of Brunello di Montalcino are made.

Once again we followed a narrow windy road up the mountain to the hilltop fortress of Montacino, and parked our car. We walked about the small town, and though I hesitated, the lovely touristy wine bar in a delightful setting seduced me.

We ordered a sample of their wines, along with a plate of cheese and cold cuts. We tasted 5 of their Brunello wines including their Cerbaiona 2005, Elia Cru 2004, Conti Costanti Riserva 2004, Santa Caterina D'Oro Ciacci Piccolomini Riserva 2004, and their Soldena Riserva 2004.

All impressive wines, but both Hera and I were disappointed by them. They were good, but both the aromas and tastes were way too subdued for such wines. Nor was the tasting inexpensive, but it was a touristy place we were sitting at.

As we walked about the small town, we decided to walk into a small wine shop. We were greeted very warmly and asked if we would like to try some of their wines. She even opened a bottle of one that we were curious about, poured a generous sample, and we tasted the Brunello's that we were used to. A full wonderful nose, and a complex full bodied taste. We ended buying 2 bottles of their Bartoli Giusti 2003, and their 2003 Riserva. While they can age another 10-15 years, I doubt they will survive the next couple of days. (http://www.bartoligiusti.it/)

Time flies way too fast. We could drive and drive in this captivating countryside, but we had to head back home. Tired, we opted for the highway.

It was a delightful day. Full of sights, smells and tastes. Now it was time, to settle down and rest a bit.

Cheeers,

Anthony & Hera

Second Day Of "Wine Town Firenze" 2010

2010-10-04T05:55:00.001-04:00

Today was another gorgeous sunny day.

We headed towards the Mercato Centrale, where it seemed there was an exhibit called "Innovation:Wine Camp."

As we walked there, we came across a hotel called Montreal and Mary's Place, and had to take some photos for home.

The Mercato is always fun to visit, and today was no different. But unfortunately, the "Wine Camp" was on a break for lunch, and we learned, it was more of a discussion in Italian on wines.

At least that saved us from walking across town to another discussion venue, and instead, we started to meander back into town.

For those who like to shop, there are no streets in Florence that does not have interesting boutiques that catches the eye. Hera found a lovely black knit jacket with mink accents and picked it up.

Food shops are also to be found everywhere. At Via Sant'Antonino 23/r we found Il Cantuccio, where for 2 Euros, we bought a bag of best biscotti that Hera and I ever tasted. Fresh, and supple, with hints of oranges, nuts and chocolates. If you are in the area, it is defintely worth finding and tasting.

Earlier in our trip we had come across an empty but charming Piazza Annunziata. Today the square was bustling with people, filled with stalls selling various items and foods. Picking up some food, we walked amongst the stalls.

WineTown had an exhibit for children called "Vinopoli: Wine Explained to Children." We saw some crates of various grapes, groups of children, and what looked like a large life-sized monopoly board. How the game was played, I am not sure, but I do not see a "wine game" for children back home. I guess we are too uptight when it comes to wine.

At one stall, we recognized some wines that we had seen back home. Francesco Sorelli cheerfully explained the various wines that Ruffino produces (http://www.ruffino.com/) All the wines were exceptional, and his guidance was educational, and helped us appreciate the wines all the more.

Later in the day, we came across another stall, this one showcasing the Monteregio di Massa Marittima region. Wines of smaller producers, that are not exported. Once again, we were pleasantly guided by Barbara Simi as she shared her enthusiasm for wine, and enjoying life in general.

As we conversed and tasted the wines, a couple from Texas joined us. They asked us our opinion on the wines, and the conversation expanded. Part of the joy of wine tasting is this sharing. We all taste and experience things differently, but by voicing our opinions and listening to others, it add depth and richness to the experience.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

Experiencing The First "Wine Town Firenze 2010"

2010-10-02T17:15:00.004-04:00

When one thinks of Florence and the Renaissance, one thinks of art. And there is certainly no shortage of art in Florence.

But the Renaissance, was also a rediscovery of science. The scientific advances of the Greeks and Romans were rediscovered via the Arabs, and Europe once again started to look and examine the world about them in a critical and scientific manner.

The recently renovated Galileo Museum was something I was looking forward to seeing. Located right next to the Uffizi Galleries, the modern museum promised a lot.

The artifacts are indeed works of art in themselves. Astrolabes, telescopes, clocks and meterologic equipment are all displayed. Old maps and globes, are all beautifully to look at. Perhaps the most intricate of all, is the Armillary Spheres that mechanically made the universe move in the complicated manner if the earth was the center of the universe.

But it does feel like a museum. Which is a pity.

There is potential for this museum to be so much more.

They even alluded how at one point it was fashionable to have working models demonstrating these scientific principles, and they even exhibited some of them as well. Why did they not take advantage of this, and have working models as part of the exhibit? It would have been much more fun and interesting to see and hear the crackle of a charge of static electricity leap across electrodes rather than simply read about it. Or look into a microscope at various specimens.

In the end, I appreciated the "art" of these amazing precision instruments that revolutionized how we look at the world. But it was dry, and I was disappointed. I felt they missed a grand opportunity to make science fun and interesting, not just academic and "exhibited" behind glass cases.

What was much more fun and interesting was the first annual WineTown (www.winetownfirenze.com). Over the weekend, at various lovely sites in Florence, wine tastings and various events were held.

We walked our now so familiar streets, and again came to the Arno River, and gazed at the iconic Ponte Vecchio. Crossing over the charming bridge, we briefly stopped and listend to a street musician, before me carried on our way.

One of the first places we visited was the vineyards held by the Guicciardini Strozzi family, located near San Gimignano. (http://www.guicciardinistrozzi.it/eng/proprieta.htm)

Irina, a charming young lady happily greeted us and informed us of their wines as well as the history of the vineyard which dates back to 994. Yes, a vineyard over 1000 years old. We tasted several of their delicious wines, met her sister Natalia, and were invited to tour their estate. The two sisters are actual descendants of La Gioconda, of the Mona Lisa.

As we walked about, Hera had mentioned how the two Princesses, were so charming. At first, I had thought Hera was joking, but she told me to look at their card. Nobles by birth, their demeanor was gracious, sincere and very warm.

We walked about, toured and sampled more wine at another exhibit, while a jazz band played. Again we were pleasantly greeted by the vineyard's representative, Doth Simone Modugno. We exchanged our views on wines, as we sampled their selections from Castello Di Verrazzano. (http://www.verrazzano.com/)

Calling it a night, we approached our street, and noticed that the Bargello museum, which we had not yet toured, was also playing host to WineTown. We entered the luxurius setting as another jazz band played. It was quite magical to look at the fine sculptures at night, as soft music played around us.

But the night was not yet finished. Diane, one of Hera's friends, had told her to try Limoncetta when we were in Florence. Earlier that day, we had picked up a bottle, and had chilled it.

Made of Lemon rinds in Vodka and Everclear (very potent alcohol), then cut with simple syrup, it becomes a deliciously dangerous liqueur.

Served iced cold, it was a great way to end our day.

Photographer's note: Experiencing (not just drinking) wine is about discovering its scent, then taste and this way it can become a personal experience that we can share through conversations with other wine lovers. Doing visual justice to any bottle of wine is quite hard, unless your shots are staged. Which in our travel Blog nothing is staged. My photos are snap shots of the moments we both shared.

Experiencing The Tuscan Town Of Siena

2010-10-01T09:08:00.002-04:00

Today we were off to nearby Siena. At one time, Siena vied with Flroence to be the dominant city. Both grew wealthy with banking, both started to build their cathedrals, both suffered horribly from the plague. Florence recovered, Siena never did.

The bus ride was quick and pleasant, and gave us our first views of the country side, albeit from the perspective of a major highway, but we did get some treasured glimpses here and there.

Photographer's note: Obviously the two shots you see below were taken from a bus window. I did not use a poloriser filter. I slighlty underxposed my shots.

Siena is a pretty town. Small and easy to navigate. Its narrow winding streets make it easy to imagine life here in medieval times.

We followed the crowd, winding our way down, until we came to the main square Il Campo. We took a seat and ordered some food and a drink. We knew it would be pricey and not that great, but sitting and relaxing on such squares is a delight on its own.

After our short break, we found our way towards Siena's Duomo, Santa Maria Assunta. It too was built over the site of an earlier church, and we had the chance to visit parts of the old church, and marvelled how colorful were the wall decorations.

Siena, competing with Florence at the time, planned on building a church larger than Florence's. It was to be the largest church in Christendom, but alas, plagues, questionable planning and financial difficulties, forced them to build a smaller, though still impressive church.

It is impressive to see the original wall of the Nave that was built, complete with vaulted ceilings in one of the aisles, and completed windows, the original front wall, as well as parts of the other wall of the Nave. One can only imagine how the church would have looked had they completed the original plan.

The church that stands now, is still no less impressive. Its facade is highly decorated, and we can see the changing styles or architecture as it was built. Romanesque on the bottom moving to gothic at the top.

The interior of the church is very impressive, more so that Florence's Duomo. There is art everywhere. The floor itself is a site to behold, as well as the paintings and sculptures that adorn the church. Bernini, Donatello, Michelangelo, and others are all represented here.

But I was most impressed by the Piccolomini library. The scenes themselves are all superbly executed, with excellent 3D perspective that takes into account the height of the frescoes above the viewers. Even more impressive is how vibrant the colors are, even though the frescoes were painted over 500 years ago.

Equally impressive is the story that the 10 scenes recount. They recount the life of one of Siena's favorite son's. A well educated noble man sent off to make his fortune. On the way, he argues against the Pope, visits England and fathers a couple of illegitimate children, then and acts as a diplomat. He then moves and joins the Court of the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick III in Viena where he is crowned court poet, writing poetry, some racy stories, a play and an autobiography. He then serves on some military campaigns, and again acts as a diplomant this time between the Pope and the Holy Roman Emperor.

He reconciles his own differences with the Pope, renouces his old galavanting way of life with the Ladies and become a priest. Soon he is promoted to Bishop of Siena, then Cardinal and ultimately becomes Pope Pius II.

Like Florence, Siena also has a Duomo museum that is well worth the visit for the art alone. But an added highlight, was that it allowed us to walk up to the top of the high wall, that was to be the facade of the originally planned church. The views in all directions were spectacular and breath taking.

We decided not to tour the Civic Museum. It sounded interesting, but since we were here only for a day, we prefered to walk the streets, and get a feel for the city. We looked into shop windows, and of course Hera had her gelato.

Across town we came across the austere grand church of San Francesco. Surpisingly, the nearby buildings are now used as part Siena's University. I can only imagine taking a lecture in such impressive decor.

We walked a bit more, before calling it a day, and headed back to the bus station.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

Our Eleventh Day In Florence

2010-09-30T15:29:00.001-04:00

Time is passing by way too quick, and we planned on visiting some nearby cities. So we started our day by going to the bus station, ask our questions, and plan some out of town visits.

Buying our tickets for tomorrow's trip to Siena, we walked back into town.

Hera visited some shops, from the Chic and Expensive, to the everyday boutiques. For shoppers, Florence has it all. But only appreciated by those who can appreciate such sights, and I am not counted as one of them.

As usual, we found ourselves once again at the Duomo. We decided that today was finally going to be the day to visit this Cathedral which so dominates Florence.

While everyone calls it the Duomo, its name is Santa Maria del Fiore. One of the largest churches ever built, it was started in 1296, before the technology to complete it even existed. A huge gaping hole remained until Brunelleshi came along in 1436. His dome was the largest ever built since the Roman Era.

The exterior of the church is not the original. Originally, only the lower third of the facade was ever completed. As the styles changed with the years, it was decided to update the exterior, and the old facade was removed. It remained without a facade for centuries. With Italy's creation last century, the completion of the church was "rushed," and the today's facade was created.

People have varying reactions to this facade. In the sun, it is way too bright, and it is best viewed on an overcast day.

The interior is vast. Both Hera and I felt that the "spirit" of the church was not really present. Just as in Saint Peter's in Rome, a hollowness seems to ring in the empty space. Is it because most who enter the Church, enter as tourists?

As our custom, we lit a candle and said a prayer.

Next we walked around and then visited the Baptistry. We gazed upon the magnificient doors, again sorry that we were not able to see the originals in the museum.

The Baptistry at one time was where everyone of Florence was baptized. Originally surrounded by a cemetary, it was an appropriate symbol.

The interior reminds one of the Pantheon of Rome, while the gorgeous mosaics on the ceiling are clearly Byzantium. The floor has Arabic Motifs, while the walls pay homage to the Germanic heritage of the Holy Roman Empire. We might forget today, but these four empires were very much present in the minds of the poeple of the time.

We walked about, up and down some streets that we had previously strolled, and decided to stop at a cafe for a beer and to people watch.

Florence is filled with friendly and helpful people. We noticed that on our first day. The agent at the Toruist Information booth was very friendly and helpful, and this friendliness was repeated over and over, again and again. It even seems to spill over into the tourists as well.

Yesterday, while gazing at the Duomo, we came across a couple from Bordeaux, France. We chatted for quite some time yesterday, talking about sites we visited to politics. As we enjoyed our beer, and people watched, they walked by. We called out. And once again, we talked for over an hour with Christian and Veronique. They finished off their gelatos, while we nursed our beer.

Florence is not only a delightful city, but a friendly one as well.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

Tasting Typical Tuscan Food In Florence

2010-09-29T16:28:00.000-04:00

Last night Hera and I decided to go to Ristorante del Fagioli, a near by family run restaurant located at 47/r Corso Tintori, just south of Santa Croce church. (Tel 055 244285)

We were not too sure what to expect. Most restaurants have a wide assortment of pastas and pizzas, but none of this was to be found on their menu.

An Italian gentleman entered ahead of us, and the waiter asked if he had reservations which he had, and was ushered in. We had none, but being early, they had a place for us. If possible do make reservations, as the restaurant soon filled up with locals who seemed to be regular patrons, with a few tourists here and there.

The wine menu was easier to understand than their food menu. We decided to enjoy ourselves and chose the 2007 Avignonese Vino Noblile di Montepulciano. The friendly waiter agreed our wine choice was excellent an excellent one, and he was more than happy to explain the menu to us.

He poured a small portion of wine, and the nose was fabulously aromatic and full. I took a sip, and felt the harsh pungent flavours almost sear my throat. The wine was good, but needed to breath a bit before it could really be enjoyed. (This is true for many good wines of this region. Let the wine sit and breath a bit in your glass.)

A few minutes later, the wine started to open, offering its full bodied flavors that did not disappoint. This was a wine to be sniffed and slowly savoured.

We started our meal sharing an appetizer of Crustini tipico, small pieces of bread with a rustic liver pate that made us realized we were in a treat for some good local cuisine.

For our first course, we ordered two of their soups. We had mentioned that we wanted to taste each others meals, and they happily obliged us. Bringing one soup at a time in the center of our table, and a bowl for each of us.

The first was a Riboliita. Ribolita basically means reboiled leftovers usually with beans, vegetables and bread. The dish was exquisite, with white beans and spinach.

The second soup was called a bread soup, and this one was equally good. A tomato based soup, with lemony hints, thickened with bread.

Bakeries have various sorts of bread, and we had bought Toscan bread. Though it has a great crust, the bread itself is non-descript, but it is excellent to soak up the flavours of our soups and the meals to follow.

We had meant to take a photo of the menu to remember the names of the dishes, but we forgot.

For main courses, we chose two different meat dishes. Hera decided upon the roll of fried meat with a potato filling, while I had a roll of meat stuffed with artichokes and mozarella in a tomato sauce. The hearty meals were delicious.

As a side dish, we ordered some fresh porcini mushrooms that they sauteed simply in olive oil, letting the full flavours of the mushrooms present itself for our enjoyment.

For dessert, we enjoyed some Almond Biscoti dipped in Vin Santo.

The ambiance of the restaurant was joyful and festive, the food, rustic, delicious and filling. We learned later that this restuarant had been accepted and approved by the http://www.accademiaitalianacucina.it/en_index.php

Another must dining experience for all who visit Florence.

For a quick visit follow this link....

http://www.geobeats.com/videoclips/italy/florence/del-fagioli

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

Our Ninth & Tenth Day In Florence

2010-09-29T07:07:00.001-04:00

Yesterday was a lazy day for us. Something that is needed now and then. After all, this is a vacation, and being here for three weeks, there is no rush.

One of the first things we did do when we arrived in Florence, was to find the nearest Tourist Information. Most provide good free toursit maps of the city, as well as hand outs of local attractions. We were also given the "The Florentine," a free bi-weekly English newspaper chocked full of useful articles. When you visit Florence, look for the paper, and ask for it if you do not see it. And before leaving for Florence, read their on-line version http://www.theflorentine.net , to start getting you acclimated to this wonderful city.

Hera had contacted them the week before, and they had invited us to drop by their offices. Florence is a compact city, and their offices were just a short walk away at via dei Banchi 4.

We were warmly greeted by them all, they even opened a bottle of wine for us. They asked us about our trip, and we learned more about each of them, as well as the mysterious Tom Fork.

Today, we were back to our usual routine.

We started with a visit to the ever enjoyable Mercato Centrale to pick up more fresh produce. Including lovely large fresh porcino mushrooms, another bottle of wonderfully full flavoured olive oil, and of course, more cheese.

We visited the Museum of San Marco, which unfortunately closes early most days. Fra Angelico had turned down an offer to become Archbishop of Florence, prefering to remain prior (head monk). But he did not turn down the offer to move the Domincan community from near by Fiesole to the new monastery that Cosimo de' Medici built in1439.

Believing art is a form of prayer, Fra Angelico went about painting the new monastery, creating masterpieces as he decorated. There are several large impressive works, as well a numerous paintings in each cell that the monks lived in. I had always envisioned the cells of monks to be tiny. While these rooms are not large, most are of an adequate size.

Several artists were produced by this community, another famous one was Fra Bartolomeo who worked the generation after Fra Angelico. Fra Bartolomeo also painted another famous resident here, brother Savonarola. When the Medici banks failed a couple of years after Lorenzo the Magnificient's death, Savonarola lead a popular ousting of the Medici family that the town felt was morally and politically bankrupted.

At first Savonarola was warmly greeted, as he made Florence a constitutional republic, shifting power from the Medici's and other wealthy families, giving it back to the people. His sermons were spell binding, as he railed against the corruption of the Church and worldly goods. But politics is a dirty business, and the Medici's re-grouped in Rome, and with the backing of the Church and neighboring powers, Savonarola was undermined. And just like today, the populace is fickle with a short memory. He was hanged, and then burned. We are just as fickle today, but no where as harsh when we vote out the old government. Heads do not roll anymore.

One of the delights of Florence, is to simply walk her streets. Deciding not to head back towards the tourist sites, we simply strolled, and came across a near by square called the Piazza della Annunziata and the Hospital of the Innocents. I sat on the steps, as I looked about the square, while Hera snapped photo after photo. Only a gelato can silence her camera.

All roads lead to the Duomo, or so it seems in Flroence, and we found ourselves again at this spectacular church. A week and a half in Florence, and we have yet to step inside.

Behind the church, is the Museum of the Duomo, and today we decided to tour it. Originally this was the workshop for the artists (including where Michelangelo created his David), it now houses many of the original pieces of the Duomo, as well as the Baptistry doors and sculputres that adorn Giotto's tower.

There are many wonderful pieces of art here, including Michelangelo's last work, without a commission, that he intended as his own monument for his tomb.

Michelangelo sculpted himself in Nicodemus who is lowering the crucified Christ into the waiting arms of Mary Magdalene and his Mother Mary. Seen head on, the three seem to struggle with the body of Jesus. But when viewed from the left, Mother Mary is not seen, and the hood covers Nicodemus' face, leaving just Mary Magdalen lifting her arms to receive Jesus. While when viewed from the right side, Mary Magdalene is hidden, and we see Jesus in the arms of his Mother Mary, with Nicodemus looking down from above.

It is a poweful sculpture, but something provoked Michelangelo to destroy it this unfinished work. Fortunately, the pieces were kepted, and an assistant later put the broken pieces back together.

One work that we were eager to see, doors of the Baptistry, was not available for viewing. Michelangelo had said these doors were fit to be the "Gates of Paradise." The copies on the Baptistry are quite spectacular in itself, and it is a pity that we could not see the real ones. Perhaps we need to return to Florence one day.

Cheers,

Anhony & Hera

A Florentine Gastronomical Evening With Friends

2010-09-27T17:05:00.003-04:00

The skies were threatening, and the occaissional drop of rain fell as we made our way across the Duomo towards Santa Maria Nouvella. We were to meet our new friends at the Hotel Orlogio's trendy comfortable bar (http://www.hotelorologioflorence.com/ ). They had an appetizing selection of drinks, and Hera decided upon a smokey martinin which was delicious. I felt thirsty, and settled for a simple gin and tonic.

Within moments, we realized we had met a couple of great new friends. Sandro and Donata were warm and enchanting, and we felt we had known them for years. Little did we know at the time, what was soon to unfold.

I am certainly spoiled by Hera's excellent cooking. With fresh produce on hand, wonderful cheeses, fresh pastas, and delicious olive oils, we eat very well. There is always a charm to sit outdoors with a drink, some food, and watch the world walk by. Most meals we have had in Italian restaurants were very good. But I cannot say they were exceptional. Tourists like food they can relate to, and most restaurants cater to them. And I admit, we enjoyed them as well.

But tonight, I felt we finally ate "real " Florentine cuisine, albeit in an updated fashion. It was not only exceptional, it was exquisite. (Purists might argue with me and say it is more an Italian fusion cuisine, rather than specifically Florentine.)

Sandro and Donata had made reservations at Cenacolo del Pescatore (http://www.cenacolodelpescatore.it/en.html), just a short walk away.

The decor is elegant. The hostess, warm and welcoming. As you walk to your table, you feel your expectations rise, but there is no hint of any pretentions.

Perusing the menu, left me a bit confused. The descriptions all sounded interesting and delicious. Sandro recommended we take their multi-course meal, and let the chef decide, something I too would suggest to anyone visiting the restaurant.

Sandro chose a Ribolla Gialla, from Friuli-Venezia Giulia region of northern Italy, on the border of Slovenia and Austria. A medium bodied, refreshing white wine. An excellent choice for the seafood we were soon to eat.

As an appetizer, we were served Paccheri Pizza, with beer jelly cubes and crumbled almonds. Paccheri are a short rigatoni type pasta typical of southern Italy, and dressed with a tomato topping, they reminded one of little pizzas as they briefly transported us to Napoli. To add to the dish, we were each served a small glass of beer.

The next appetizer had us eating deep fried shrimps, shrouded in Rice noodles.

The first course had the ladies eating Octopus served in three ways. Steamed, grilled and deep fried, sitting on a bed of luscious mashed potatoes, with a shot glass of octupus stock in the middle of the platter. I had a taste of two of the three, and I must admit, it was the most delicious octupus I ever had.

Sandro and I were served "Pescatore Styled Bread Salad," a square of bread topped with mussels and squid, with tomatoes and onions. The flavours were delicate and full, perfectly balanced, with no flavour over powering another.

Next we were served a carpaccio of squid and shrimp with cherry tomatoes, mozarella and olive oil. It tastes as delicious as it sounds.

Followed by a cream soup of cannellini beans with mussels. The delicate flavours tickling our taste buds.

It was time for another bottle, and Sandro again chose an excellent bottle of the Sicilian Cometa by Planeta. A white wine that Hera found its nose reminded her of Ice Wine. I agreed, its nose was full with hints of apricots. The taste, was far more subtle and refined, and accompanied our meal perfectly.

The ladies were then served a Tagliatelle with Oyster and lime sauce, while we were served a Porcini Mushroom Risoto with Tarantine Mussels. Each dish was excellent. And at risk of repeating myself, the myriad of flavors where all quite distinct, complementing and never out competing each other.

As a final course, the women were served a Pezzogna (white fish) in a tomato and olive broth, delicate and delicious, while we were served a Lobster salad with a sumptious mayonaise. Need I say it was wonderful?

We were full, but Sandro encouraged us to at least share some desert. So he order a goat cheese cheese cake, the lightest phenomenal cheesecake I ever tasted, while I, quite full, ordered the lemon sorbet. How a sorbet can be this delicious and refreshing I do not know.

Chef Daniele Pescatore deserves accolades for his fine cuisine. Not only is it exceptionally stunning to look at, the flavours are so varied, multi-layered, and as I mentioned a few times above, never over shadowing one another. A true delight in every possible way.

While Cenacolo del Pescatore is not inexpensive, it not really expensive either. One really gets value for the money, and it is a place I would strongly recommend everyone to try on their visit to Florence. It has certainly been a highlight of our visit thus far. (http://www.cenacolodelpescatore.it/en.html)

We thank our new friends Sandro and Donata for taking us here, and of course, we must thank chef Daniele Pescatore and his wonderful team for giving us such a wonderful night we will remember and cherish.

Photographer's note: As a photograper, Chef Daniel's plates are all about pure visual art and sublime taste. I photographed them under natural low light, light only by candles, hand held. The shots are mere snap shots.

Cheers,

Anhony & Hera

Our Eight Day in Florence

2010-09-27T09:56:00.000-04:00

Today was again supposed to be a rainy day, but again we happily awoke to blue skies, albeit it with some clouds a bit threatening.

We were headed off to Pitti Palace for the day.

The wealthy Pitti family started to build their palace on the South side of the Arno river in 1458. While the Medici's were the dominant family, other powerful families joslted for position. Financial meltdowns are not a new phenomenum of our day. The Pitti family went bankrupted, and never finished their palace. A couple of years after Lorenzo the Magnificent's death, so did the Medici banks fail, leading to the exile of the Medici's.

In Rome, the Medici's re-established their power base. The Medici's definitely had friends in high places, and a struggle to re-establish the family in Florence ensued, backed by the Church and neighboring powers. Lorenzo the Magnificent's son soon became Pope Leo X, and ten years later Lorenzo's nephew became Pope Clement VII. Women too played their role, as Catherine de' Medici would marry the future King Henry II of France.

Back in Florence, rich, powerful, and backed by immensely powerful friends in the Church and neighboring states, the Medici's were once again the top family. Weilding enormouse power and influencing the world, the family remained dominant, but they would never regain the near omnipotence that the Medici's once had. The center of the world was shifting to Paris.

Almost a century after the Pitti's started to build their palace, the Medici's bought it in 1549, expanding it, and then moving the family residence there.

Surprised, we learned that the Palace was opened for free this day. I tried to pick up an audioguide, but alas, the ones that had been returned were all charging and would not be ready for another hour. So we toured the palace on our own.

The art collection here is enormous. Walls are covered in paintings three or more rows high. While not displayed to fully give justice to the pieces of work, I much preferred my tour of the Pitti Palace's collection than the Uffizi's collection.

The palace also displays several of the sumptious rooms, filled with furnishings of the day. Many rooms, were redecorated and updated to the tastes of the day, and reminded me of the royal apartments of France. (I did say earlier that the centre of the world had moved from Florence to Paris.)

In addition, there is a museum of fashion, that Hera particularly enjoyed. I enjoyed it as well, and I particularly liked the way the curator placed similar styles of clothing of different epochs next to each other.

As we were about to leave, and visit the Boboli gardens, the sky opened up, and the rain poured down. We meandered about the palace for awhile, and like most summer rains, it was soon over.

A few times I had commented to Hera, that Florence lacks parks and green spaces. While very manicured, the Boboli gardens were a welcomed relief. Free today, there is normally an admission charge to walk the gardens. With so little green space, I hope the City of Florence one day decides to let the Boboli Gardens be open and free for all to enjoy.

Hera was ecstatic. Held back from taking photos in the museum (again I hope Florence will soon allow photographing in museums), and with scenic vistas and details gallore, Hera found images everywhere to photograph. Wide lanes lined with sculptures, lovely enchanting little pathways, fountains and views, one can spend hours if not days strolling the park.

Meandering the streets of the Oltrarno, we headed towards Ponte Vecchio. I knew Hera loved the little cannolos we had a couple of times already, so I reminded her, and she was thrilled to re-visit her favorite pastry shop. We had tried pastries elsewhere, but thus far, this is our favorite. (Caffe Royal - Ristorante de' Bardi sr1 Via de' Bardi 54-64 R)

We hurried back to our apartment. Time had flown by, and though our day was over, we were both excited and eager for the evening ahead.

Cheers,

Hera & Anthony

Our Seventh Day in Florence

2010-09-25T16:13:00.001-04:00

Today was supposed to be a rainy day.

While it did rain when we got in last night, we awoke to lovely puffy clouds in a brilliant blue sky.

Today our plan was to visit the Church of Santa Maria Novella. It is Novella (new) because when the Dominicans were assigned the area in 1221, they decided to built a new church on the site of a 9th century oratory of Santa Maria delle Vigne. (On the other side of town, the Franciscans had their Santa Croce Church.)

Architecturally, there is a trompe l'oeil effect, where the nave appears much longer than it really is. This was achieved by having the columns getting slightly closer, the aisle slightly narrower, with the floor rising slightly as well. Architects seemed to have mastered the 3-D effect much earlier than artists were able to apply it to their paintings, until Masaccio came around.

Massaccio's, "The Trinity," gives the effect that one is looking inside a small chapel, with the walls receding away. It would take another generation or two before such perspective became standard in paintings.

There are numerous other aspects of this painting that are firsts. No such barrel vault had yet been constructed since the Roman times, and Mother Mary is not the typical virginal faced girl, but an older more stern looking woman.

Most chapels held the remains of a dearly departed, and under this painting/chapel lies a skeleton with an inscription that reads, "I was once what you are, and what I am you will become."

Other important works can also be found here, Giotto's "Crucifix" hangs in the middle of the church (originally over the main alter), while Brunelleschi's wooden "Crucifix" depicts a realistic man crucified.

Brunelleschi was competing against his friend Donatello's crucifiction hanging at the Santa Croce church. Santa Maria Novella was of the Dominican Order, more intellectual, and in a sense, more noble, and so is Brunellschi's Christ. While Santa Croce was of the Franciscan Order, simpler, of the common man, and Donatello's Christ is much more a common regular man.

Also impressive are the several chapels that competing families hired artists to decorate. Each family trying to out compete each other. In one of them, the young Michelangelo worked as a teenaged apprentice before he was discovered. While another seems purposely effaced, and I wonder if the family had fallen out of favor in town.

The pulpit here, was also where the heretical words of Galileo were first condemned. "How can the earth move around the sun?" As the experts of the day all knew that everything revolves around the earth. They even refused to look into his telescope at Jupiter where they would have clearly seen Jupitor's moons revolving around Jupiter, but then they would be wrong and Galileo right. Better not to look, after all, they know the truth.

Although not a typical destination, around the corner at 16 Via della Scala is an ancient perfume shop that is defintely worth the visit. Originally part of the Domincan herb garden for their own private stock of medicine, it later offered it services to the neighborhood. Medicinal herbs as well as fragrances made the old fashioned way can be bought here.

While the web allows one to share, thoughts, images and even sounds, it cannot yet share the wonderful fragrances we enjoyed. The shop girl sprayed fragrances onto a paper sniffing wand, and after sampling several, Hera decided upon a seasonal room fragrance entitled "Summer."

The night before we had sampled some micro brewery beer, and one that we had enjoyed was nearby. Mostodolce can be found at 114/r Via Nazionale. If you enjoy unique flavors that can only be had by smaller productions, this place is worth the visit. Besides, it allows one to rest, and people watch.

This was a new neighborhood for us. Less touristy than most, and we walked the streets, entered some shops, then headed back for home.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

Our Sixth Day In Florence

2010-09-24T17:14:00.005-04:00

Today had us once again south of the Arno River.

We meandered across Piazza della Signoria, watching the tourists more than the square itself. It reminded us of our time in Prague and its famous old square.

Reaching the Arno River, we again looked at the multitudes of locks that had been purposely locked together. It was another reminder of Prague, where lovers would leave their locks, in a perpetual locked embrace.

As we crossed the Ponte Vecchio we examined how ingeniously they have used the decorated wooden protectors. At night, they protect the shop windows, during the day, the lower half adds adornments below the shops' windows, while the upper half is hoisted up as a lovely awning. (If you click to enlarge the image below, you will see an unintentional cameo of me in the centre of the photo.)

The crowded narrow winding streets are a joy to traverse. One can only imagine how the Florence of old must have been. Apparently, Florence was so built up, torches were needed during the day, and that when it rained, one could walk the streets, and not get wet.

During its time, Florence was the centre of the Western world. A couple a centruries earlier, it was Prague, while a couple of centuries later it would be Paris, followed by London, then New York. Where will the centre shift in the coming years?

As we approached Santa Maria del Carmine Church, we came across its ugly square still used a parking lot. It is hard to imagine that most European squares where as abandoned and forlorned as this poor square, until someone realized the revenues that could be had if they removed the cars, an allowed cafes to spring up for tourist dollars.

We came here to see the Brancacci Chapel, more specifically, the frescoes of Masaccio.

This chapel is also a great example of the intrigues of Florence, the evolution of art, and how artists are affected by other artists.

The Brancacci were prominent silk merchants, who opened part of the wall of the church, and commisioned the well know artist of the day, Masolino to decorate the chapel with stories of St. Peter's life. The 40 year old established artist Madolino, engaged the young 23 year old Masaccio to help him.

They worked side by side on separate panels, but rarely, if ever together. The older Masolino, an expert in the International Gothic style that was all the rage at the time, painted overly detailed elaborate outfits, in a flat, medieval style. While the younger, experimental Masaccio, placed emotion and perspective in his work. Masolino's outfits look painted onto the people, while Masaccio's outifts hangs, folds and flows like real clothes.

There are two scenes of Adam and Eve. The older Masolino's depiction of the devil tempting the couple is rather flat, serene, with little emotion, while Masaccio's depiction of the couple's expulsion from the garden is full of emotion. Adam covers his face in shame, while Eve wails in anguish next to him.

Massaccio not only had command of perspective, but also of chiaroscuro, the play between light and shade, that added depth and realism, and the copied by the greats who would follow. Later, Leonardo da Vinci would say there were only two real artists of note, Giotto and Masaccio, while Michelangelo too would use Masaccio as his base for some of his works, particularly in the Sistine Chapel.

That is not to say that the older Master Masolino had no influence. In his scene of the temptation, he depicted the devil as a serpent with the same face as Eve. A motif that others would copy in years to come.

The older Masolino was in such great demand. Leaving for Hungary for a new commission, he left the rest of the chapel in the hands of the younger Masaccio, who within a year or so would die in Rome, probably posioned, at the age of 27.

The official opening of the church was such an grand event. All the important dignitaries in attended. The young Massaccio executed a wonderful work that forever captured the moment.

Years later, a fire destroyed most of the church, but the chapel, miraculously survived. Unfortunately, during the restoration of the church, this important piece of art was lost. But so influential was Massaccio, with so many artists copying his work, including this particular piece, we are able to reconstruct the painting almost as he originally painted it.

Politics is politics. The Brancacci family fell from favour, and were expelled from the city. So vehement was their expulsion, that parts of Massaccio's frescoes were effaced to remove traces of the Bracacci.

A 20 year old Carmelite, brother Philip was so inspired by these works, that he went on to an impressive painting career himself, believing that art was a form of prayer. At the age of 50, he fell in love, and his son, Filippino Lippi (Little Philip) was equally impressed by these works, that he restored parts of Massiccio's frescoes that were defaced. In particular the scene of "Peter Resurrects the Son of Theophilus."

But to this day, one can see one can see traces behind the alter of at least one, if not two paintings. Just small glimpses of edges... One wonders.... what did they show?

After being awed viewing the chapel, we watched and equally impressive 40 minute film about the chapel and the works of art. It was amazing. While the chapel is the attraction, and must be seen, I would say that this film must be seen as well. It adds so much to what one sees. So much so, that Hera wanted to go back and look once again at the chapel. Only then, did I see some of the details I had missed.

The only disappointment, was that the rest of the church was roped off for viewing. What could be seen, was impressive. Perhaps not as much as the chapel, but I would have liked to be able to view and appreciate the rest of the church.

Remaining south of the Arno, we came across the pastry shop were we had the delicious cannolo mignon a few days earlier. Once again, they were delicious.

Then we walked up, to Piazzale Michelangelo for some impressive views of Florence. The Duomo dominates the skyline, but we could also see Santa Croce, and pointed midway between them, where our apartment lay.

While the view of Florence is indeed impressive, Hera once again felt that flutter of Stendhal Syndrome not from a piece of great art created by man, but by art, created by nature herself, as she photographed several grottos.

Almost home, a beer festival was underway, so we walked about and sampled some excellent beer.

Back home, Hera made a sumptious dish of fresh Tortellini stuffed with Porcini mushrooms, that were covered in a savory buttery rose sauce with muchroom overtones. Delicious.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

Our Fifth Day In Florence

2010-09-23T18:36:00.000-04:00

We believe that a vacation, is a exactly that, a vacation. And that can mean at times taking our time, sleeping in a bit before picking up some groceries, then loitering at our apartment in with a long brunch. We really are never in a rush, and takes things as they present themselves.

That being said, it is always good to check the hours that sites are open.

On our first day at the tourist office, after a local toursit map, the next item I picked up was a hand out on all the opening hours of the various museums. It lists the hours they are open and the days they are closed. That first day, we learned from the helpful tourist agent, that the David was going to be "free" tonight, from 7-9 pm.

Our general plan for the day, was to walk past the Academia, where the David stands, then visit the museum of San Marco a bit further north, head back and enter the Palazzo Medici Riccardi, meander back and take a break back at our apartment, then go back out to see "David."

We wandered along now familiar streets, around the Duomo, and then turned up via Ricasoli. Passing the Accademia, we once again saw the infamous line ups. Would we really see "David" for free tonight?

We arrived at San Marco around 13:30. Doors are often closed, but then looking at the adjoining sign, it read that it closes at 13:50. Most museums close their doors for admittance 30 minutes before closing. I should have read my handout on museum hours.

At least we explored two new streets that we had yet to walk, as we walked back down on via Cavour towards the Palazzo Medici Riccardi.

The founder of the Medici's, Cosimo the elder, rejected Brunelleschi's design for being "too sumptuous... liable to stir envy...," and decided on Martolomeo's much more austere design, which then became the prototype of Renaissance civic architecture.

The star attraction, is the family's private chapel, the Chapel of the Magi, magnificantly painted by Benozzo. If you do not have any written material about the place, the 1Euro information brochure is definitely worth the cost for this chapel alone.

While the chapel does demand attention, what I most enjoyed were the rooms. It gives a real sense of place. While elaborate, it still feels that it was a real home, albeit for one of tremendous wealth. One of the rooms called the Gallery, again sumptiously decorated, with mirrors along one side, reminded me of Versailles, but in better taste.

The rediscovery of the classic world "is" the Renaissance. We often forget, that this appreciation started here. The basement rooms hold a collection of their Roman and Hellenistic scultures that they collected.

Hera had her mind on a particular unconventional design for a purse. With time in hand, we walked over to the Leather School behind Santa Croce. A quiet comfortable garden leads onto an unobtrusive entrance to the Leather School created by the Franciscan monks to give orphaned boys of WWII a trade. Their exceptional craftmanship is a delight to behold, with reasonably priced items.

We then entered and toured Santa Croce itself. One of Florence's oldest churches, it holds the remains of many illuminaries from Michelangelo to Galileo, Rossini to Donatelli. The artwork is lovely, but what captivated me was the elegant ribbed wood ceiling, In such places I find that it is important to simply sit, and enjoy. There is always more to see, but it is important to stop, and appreciate.

Santa Croce also holds part of St. Francis of Assisi's tunic, and a museum in the monks' old dining hall, housing several other pieces of artwork.

One of Santa Croce's stories is the devasting flood of 1966 that it and the city of Flroence suffered. The Arno River flooded its banks, and the water rose midway up the doors. And when the water's receded, it left behind an enormous amount of mud. Much art was horribly damaged, but the outpouring of support, and meticulous restoration, has fortunately restored much of it.

Florentine's are known as the "bean eaters," but so few restaurants seem to have such traditional Florentine fare on their menu's. When in Rome, do as the Roman's, when in Florence, eat as a Florentine... So Hera cooked up a delicious Cannellini Rustica dish. (White beans in a seasoned tomato sauce with shavings of Parmigiano cheese.)

Well fed, and rested, we headed back out, wondering if we were really going to see "David" for free. As we approached, we saw the typical line. Were we supposed to get our tickets in advance? The line started to move, and we entered the Accademia. I knew the "David" was just in the room to my left, where everyone was headed, but I took my time in the first room to appreciate the works of art.

When I did enter, and look down the corridor, I caught my breath. David is indeed a sight to behold. Perfectly exhibited, perfectly lit, it is captivating. Walking down the corridor, one's eyes are fixated on the changing perspective of this magnificient sculpture, totally oblivious to the other works of Michelangelo that line the corridor.

Why is it so wonderful? I am really not sure. Critically, I do not find it a really pretty sculpture. Even though I know it was designed to be placed high above the southern roofline of the Duomo, and thus purposely has a larger head, I still find it's hands to be to big too, nor am I really enamoured by his legs. But looking at it as a whole, I am still amazed at how beautiful it is.

We lingered, and enjoyed the other pieces of wonder art at the Accademia, only to return and once again gaze upon David. Thus far, I must admit, despite all the magificient art I have seen in Florence, this piece has been the only piece that has impressed me so much.

Enjoying another gelato, we meandered about, window shopped, and ended up again at the Piazza della Signoria, where we noticed a few musicians setting up in front of the Palazzo Vecchio. We found a place to sit, watched the crowds, and enjoyed a free outdoor concerto.

Florence is a lovely city.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

Our Fourth Day In Florence

2010-09-22T15:33:00.024-04:00

No mercato today, oh well.... But we will be there tomorrow.

Today was our day for the Uffizi Gallery. I was curious if I was going to finally succumb to Stendhal syndrome, but I did not.

Remembering the long lines we had viewed yesterday, and the dire warnings that the Uffizi is at times booked a month in advance, we were happy to have tickets in hand for 11 am.

We were not sure if there might be a line up, so we arrived early and strolled about a bit. Entering the queue, we managed to enter 30 minutes before our appointed time. We picked up an audioguide, then climbed the long steps up to the exhibit, stopping at times to admire the Roman busts that adorned the staircase.

The Uffizi Gallery does hold an impressive collection of artwork. It traces art's medievel roots, into the flowering of the Renaissance that started in Florence, and then moved on to the rest of Europe.

Universally familiar paintings like Boticelli's Birth of Venus and Allegory of Spring are held here, as well as Da Vinci's Annunciation and his unfinished Adoration of the Magi. Michelangelo, Raphael and Titian also can be found here. Even so, I felt a bit let down.

So close to home, we walked back for a quick luncheon before heading out again.

We headed to the Medici Chapels, the final resting place of most of the Medici's. The new sacristy was designed and executed by Michelangelo. The Medici's were more than his patrons, they were his adopted family. They basically adopted the young Michelangelo, and he grew up in their household. The new sacristy holds the earthly remains of four Medici's, three of whom Michelangelo knew personally.

Again, I felt a bit let down, as I expected more from Michelangelo. His Pieta at the Vatican felt real, with flowing gowns, emotions permeate the work, and one can not but resonate with it. While the four sculptures representing Dawn and Dusk, Night and Day, seemed brutish.

The Medici chapels is part of the Church of San Lorenzo. As our custom, we entered the church, and lit a candle. While we spent much less time here, I appreciated the church more than the Medici Chapels.

After a brief rest on the steps ot the Church, we headed towards via del Tornabuoni. A street that holds the houses of Gucci, Armani, Dior, Prada, et al. Would I spend 130 Euro for a simple key chain? Probably not. But it still was fun to window shop.

A bit tired, we found an outdoor restaurant at Piazza della Signoria. We each ordered a beer, but with such a lovely view of the Palazzo Vecchio, we ordered a simple Margherita Pizzea and another glass of beer.

On a few occaissions, I commented how Florence was reminiscent of Prague. Surprisingly more so than of Rome. Probably because of the small winding streets.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

Our Third Night In Florence

2010-09-21T16:17:00.011-04:00

Supper tonight was a fresh Tonnarelli pasta in a porcini cream sauce with a fresh mixed salad dressed with the delightful olive oil I previously wrote about, accentuated with some balsamic vinegar and spices.

Well fed, and well rested, we headed back out for a Florentine walk.

Florence at night is quite different. The hectic crowded bustle of tour groups are no where to be seen at night. The streets, though relatively quiet, is still alive with strollers, diners, and street musicians.

We walked our now familiar walk towards the Palazzo Vecchio, through the Uffizi Galery, onto the banks of the Arno river gazing at the iconic Ponte Vecchio. The bridge itself is quiet at night, but we were amazed at how the gold shops are closed up. Wooden panels cover the windows, the top half by day is hoisted up as an awning, while the lower half falls forwards, and convers the front in a decorative manner.

Gelatos are everywhere, and we decided to have another. We could not help resist a chuckle when we came across a place announcing Gelato Festival, reminding us of the Quebec film, "Le Grand Seduction."

Walking along the streets aimlessly, we came across a church offering a free organ recital. We entered, and sat. Hera again felt a sudden wave of Stendhal syndrome, as we listened to the moving music of Bach and gazed at the artwork of the church.

Back home, we had a late night snack of cheese, bread and the delicious olive oil.

Contented, we will sleep well.

Photographer's note: All the night shots here were shot hand held on manual mode, between 400 ISO nd 1600 ISO.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

Our Third Day (Florence)

2010-09-21T12:10:00.017-04:00

We again started our day at the Mercato Centrale. Tastings are part of the experience at the market, and we sampled some cold cuts, picking up three, along with some cheeses (Piquante Provolone, Pecorino Rustica and a Tuscan Pecorino), as well as a black ruffle. Our most expensive food acquisition so far at 25 Euros. This year, apparently they had a bumper crop, and the prices are depressed. Apparently the one we bought would normally sell for 50 Euros.

The variety of meats and produce at the market is amazing. The colorful chickens, while smaller, looked delicious, the quail eggs were tempting, while other organ meats, brain and testes and ...... were not high on our must try list.

We had heard that one should reserve sometimes a month in advance for the Uffizi Gallery. Getting there, we were greeting by a sign map stating that gate 3 was for reservations and information. We soon found out that the long line at gate 3 was for those who made reservations to pick up their tickets, before going to another long line at gate 2 to enter.

Asking directions, we were instructed to go to gate 1, were we easily bought tickets for the next day, and it seemed we could even get in later this same day. Perhaps it was good we did not make reservations in advance.

One reason we wanted to go in person, was to try to get a photo permit. Most museums allow photgraphy, some require a permit for a nominal charge. Here in Florence, most museums do not allow any photography. A pity.

With our tickets arranged, we once again walked along the Arno river admiring the Ponte Vecchio with the throng of tourists. Florence is a city of tourists.

Crossing the Arno River, we once again strolled the quaint small streets of the Oltrarno. The area here has a more authentic Florentine feel, with the small winding streets, and the occaissional remaining family tower. Romeao and Juliette were not from Florence, but these family towers and feuding families surely had their own stories of star crossed lovers.

Gelatos are always an enjoyable treat, and we each had ours as we sat in a small park, resting, and simply enjoy the sense of place.

We headed back towards the river, and was amazed how still it was. The reflections and sky was spectacular, and once again, Hera seemed to briefly exhibit some symptoms of Stendhal syndrome. Thus far, I seem to have not been affected, but we will have to see tomorrow at the Uffizi galleries.

Wine, food, pastry is everywhere in Florence. As we past a chic looking cafe, Hera spied some awesome looking Cannolo Mignon. We each had one of these bite sized deserts. They were wonderful. Deliciously sweet, with a long pleasant after taste. All too often such deserts are overly sweet, but these were just perfect.

We meandered back home, and entered our now familiar neighborhood. Passing Santa Croce church, we crossed some streets that reminded us of both Prague and Rome.

As I write, the apartment is parfumed with the Porcini cream sauce Hera is preparing for our pasta. We sip our Lagioiosa et Amorosa Verduzzo Frizzante wine, a delightful slightly effervescent white wine, refreshing and crisp. At 2.60 Euro, it was cheaper than our gelato. (Back home, the SAQ charges us $9)

One of the shops we had crossed earlier today, had handwritten bookmarks with various quotes. One of them had said... "If you keep thinking of all the things you do not have, think of the things you do not want to have, and be thankful for not having them..."

Photographer's notes: So far I have so many amazing images. I am saveing them all for my audio-visuals. All you see here are tiny teasers. I hope you are enjoing them so far. Don't be shy, contact us in private or in comments section here.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

Our Second Day

2010-09-20T17:30:00.025-04:00

I awoke wide and awake at 4:30 am local time. A bit too early, so I stayed in bed and day dreamed for about an hour, before once again falling deep asleep.

We awoke late, startled that it was already 10 am. I made an espresso coffee for us, and then we headed off to the Mercato Centrale for some real food shopping.

We crossed the Duomo, and past some of the leather stalls we had seen the day before. Again Hera seemed to briefly be showing signs of Stendhal syndrome as another wave of emotion over came her.

I was about to take out my map, to be sure we were headed in the right direction, when we spied what looked like the Mercato Centrale. An enclosed market full of stalls selling fresh vegetables, meats and various cheeses.

We bought bread, parmagiano cheese, olive oil, prosciutto and Milanese salami, along with other vegetables and fresh porcini mushrooms. We looked at each other, and exclaimed to each other that porcini mushrooms are bolettes. (A type of mushroom)

We headed back home for our bruch. We dipped our bread into the olive oil. We decided not to add any balsamic vinegar, as the floral flavour of the olive oil was exceptional on its own. (Santoliva extra virgin olive oil, www.sordigiuseppe.it) Along with the parmagiano cheese, and cold cuts, we had a satisfying brunch.

The day before, we had walked past several leather shops, but Hera felt that one of the first shops had the purse she wanted. So we headed towards Santa Croce, and found the leather shop we saw the day before, to pick up a small purse.

We crossed the Arno river and gazed at the famous Ponte Vecchio bridge. The small streets and shops south of the Arno river are reminiscent of the West bank of Paris or Trastevere of Rome. We spent some time on the famous bridge filled with shops selling gold jewelry, then again walked back South of the Arno river. We walked across Pitti Palace, saving it for another day, and later bought some delightful oval cherry tomattos to eat as we strolled. So sweet and tasty, Hera saved some to seed and dry them, hoping to grow them when back home. (Winks to Elaine)

Heading back, we again sauntered over the Ponte Vecchio bridge filled with toursists, and again wandered the beautiful streets of Florence. Today was a day for unguided meandering walks. To get a feel for the city. After all, we are in no rush.

Back home, Hera fried the Porcini mushrooms in some butter and olive oil, while the Porcinin filled ravioli we bought earlier was served in a butter and olive oil sauce, along with some garlic, sun dried tomatoes, and a spice mixture we bought at the market. To accompany our meal, we had a 2008 Poggio Stella Rosso Di Montepulciano. A full bodied red, with mild tannins and a lovely lingering delicious after taste.

Talk about being spoiled. Exceptional wines, delicious cheese, and olive oil that alone makes the trip worthwhile. Settled into our comfotable apartment, we are now at home in Florence, and looking forwards to the days ahead.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

Travelling to Florence

2010-09-20T15:41:00.031-04:00

It was a gorgeous warm sunny morning, when my sister picked us up, and drove us to the airport. With time to spare, we had brunch at Houston's, bought some parfume at the duty free, and roamed among the shops, and then waited some more.

The plane left on time, and headed West, giving a spectacular view of Lake St. Louis reminiscent of the Carribean.

We connected in Philadelphia, and flew back up the coast, over Cape Cod, then over the Bay of Fundy on our left, and Nova Scotia on our right, before heading off across the Atlantic.

After supper and movie, I tried unsuccessfully to sleep, while Hera watched a second movie. The idea is to try and nap heading East, then forcefully stay awake the next day to quickly get our bodies habituated to the time change.

We had a brief stop over in Frankfurt, enough to watch the sun rise, then a quick flight to Florence. The Alps were a sight to see, which soon gave wave to the hills of Tuscany.

Hopping into a taxi, with broken Italian, we arrived to our apartment. The real richness of life, are the contacts we make in our journey, and one such person had given me the name of the owner of this apartment. While the original apartment was no longer available, this apartment was a wonder to behold. Thank you Francesco & Umberto.

A charming historic building, the apartment has lovely artwork on the walls, a comfortable bedroom, and an additional loft with two separate twin beds. A family of four would live very comfortably here.

Tired, exhausted, but resolute to acclimate to the new time zone, we left the apartment for a quick stroll of our new neighborhood. We soon found out that our street is a major tourist walkway between Santa Croce Church and the Duomo, with the Palazzo e Casino Burghezie across our street.

An essential early visit to any new city, is the tourist information place. Getting a map of the city, and any helpful hints, is always appreciated. The next essential, is to find some local markets. We found a wine shop across the street, but had to walk a bit to find a super market. We picked up coffee and sugar, along with some wine. The bare essentials, as we planned to go to the Mercato Centrale the next day for some real shopping.

Although tired, we still managed to cover a significant portion of the tourist areas of Florence. We past the Duomo, and meandered about, coming across several street stalls selling various items of leather. At every turn, art afronts the eyes. At one point, Hera seemed to be suffering a bit from Stendhal syndrome, as she felt a wave of emotions over take her.

Our feet tired, we spied a charming restaurant called Mangiafuoco at 24/R Via Guelfa. We started our meal with a mixed salad. Hera had their truffle ravioli, a delicate mushroom filling with a simple buttered and sage sauce, while I had their creamed porcinini pasta plate, more robust in its earthy flavours. The half liter house wine we ordered had a full nose of scents, with soft peppery flavours that complemented our meals wonderfully.

Getting back home, we settled into our new home. Opened the chilled bottle of Villa Rasina Soave Classico. A refreshing, clear white aromatic white wine with subtle fruity notes. We ensured our WiFi internet connection, enjoyed our glass of wine, and though still relatively early, we were glad we manged to stay awake until 7 pm.

Snuggling in bed, we closed our eyes. Our home for the next few weeks...

Photographer's note: Throughout this trip I will use my Panasonic Lumic G1. Mostly with it's kit lens (14mm-45mm). I like to travel light. I will shoot hand held on manual mode or sometimes on Custom mode (exept night shots). So far all my shots are done in Vibrant film mode. All my images are only slightly edited. To shoot my architectural shots I use Live View to get my compositioal lines right in the camera.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

New York Day 8 "Our Last Day"

2010-07-02T20:32:00.010-04:00

Once again we stepped out to a gorgeous dry 26 degree day in New York. Our last day was going to be spent similar to our first day, but without the horrendous humidity we endured.

At first Hera was thinking of not bringing her camera, but I convinced her otherwise. She decided to shoot today in black and white, although I tried to convince her otherwise to no avail.

Walking North in the East village we came across the oldest church in New York City, St. Mark's-in-the-Bowery Church, dating back to 1799. The church stands on the same site as the original 1660 chapel that the Dutch Govenor Peter Stuyvesant on his large bouwerie, which is Dutch for farm. Two aged statues depicting native Amerindians, one named "Aspiration," and the other named "Inspiration" stand outside the church.

The adjoining cemetary holds the tombs of Governor Stuyvesant, along with seven generations of his family, as well as several other notable people.

We walked down this diagonal street that I had earlier wrote is one of the few true East-West Streets, that the wealthy of the time saved from the Grid structure that was being imposed on Manhatten. As the wealth moved further North, these mansions were taken over as brothels. Organized crime moved in, the parties caused such a racket on the streets, which is where we now get the term "racketeering" to described such criminal activities.

Walking West, we crossed The Bowery Street. North of here it is 4th Avenue, while South of here, into the East Village, Little Italy and China Town the street is called The Bowery. Govenor Peter Stuyvesant larger bouwerie (farm) played a role that I am sure he never envisioned.

Heading towards Greenwich Village we came across delightful small cobble-stoned street called Washington Mews which once housed the stables for the wealthy homes around Washington Square. Grass sprouting between the cobble stones, lovely flowers on windowsill flower boxes, and ivy climbing the walls of these low houses.

Unlike the week before, when mobs of people walked streets closed to traffic, Greenwich Village was back to normal. Locals and tourists alike roamed the streets. The various angled streets are wonderful places to stroll. Each street seems to be an enclave of its own. Picturesque buildings of various sorts, a wide variety of shops and boutiques, and of course, restaurants of all types.

You do not have to spend much money to eat excellent food in New York. That is not to say, that spending some money on a fine restaurant does not give you value for your money. We found a wonderful restaurant called Sant Anbroeus (www.santambroeus.com). We sat outside and we each ordered a glass of their Savuto'Odoardi 2005 for $11 a glass. It had a wonderful multi-layered nose. So often we have tasted some wines with a phenomenal aroma only to be disappointed by its taste, but that was not the case with this wine. Its flavor was a complex of dark fruits, good structure, with a long smokey aftertaste.

Hera ordered their mildy spicy "Fusillone All'Arrabbiata," while I had their home made ravioli with ricotta and baby spinach. Each plate was delicious. Just perfect on such a wonderful day. We even had the company of a little bird that kept visiting us throughout our meal.

To end it off, we each had a double expresso and a wonderfully light Tiramisu.

Rested and without the humidity we had endured the week before, we headed deeper into Greenwich Village. Walking into various shops and boutiques, as we meandered about the multitude of small streets.

While here for just a week, our neighborhood felt like home. While it is our last day, it will not be the last time we visit New York.

Notes from Hera (the photographer) : During the entire trip I have used a Panasonic Lumix G1 camera, with a 14mm-45mm Lumix lens ONLY. Most of my shots were shot on Manual mode f stop set at f/8... Every black and white image was shot in the camera. I did slight editing to all my images. Almost all the images were shot hand held, except Infared shots and night shots at the Brooklyn Bridge.

Dring our travels I beleive in traveling light in camera gear. My Lumix G1 is a wonderful camera that creates good quality images to my liking. Some of my photography from Lumix G1 have been enlarged as large as 20"x30" wall art prints...

Heavy duty camera gear doesn't make you a good photographer. The camera is just a tool of the craft...

I have several audio visual shows planned from my trips. So therefor what I have shared with you at this Blog are just tiny teasers.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

New York Day 7

2010-07-02T11:19:00.009-04:00

It was another gorgeous sunny day, 25 degrees and dry. It felt amazing. It is hard to believe that just a few days ago, the humidity was so oppressive.

Like we usual do, we started our day in our neighborhood. We stopped by Yonah Schimmel (137 East Houston Street), where the first knishes of North America were made. Knishes are more or less baked, never fried, balls of mashed potatos. Hera had the mushroom knish, while I had the original potato knish. Of the two, we both prefered mine.

Then we hopped into the metro and headed off to Coney Island. Once again, as I have said before, do learn the transit system. Getting to Coney Island simply meant taking our usual train, this time into Brooklyn, and getting off at the last stop. Stepping out of the train, one can smell the fried food, we are there.

Coney Island has defintely seen better days, but it is the original grand-daddy of amusement parks. As long as you are not expecting the latest high tech amusement ride, and can take the kitchiness in stride, you will have a good time at Coney Island. If you enjoy going for a swim, bring your bathing suit as there is a large beach and a long board walk to enjoy as well.

Children run about laughing and screamining, as they race from ride to ride, while a church choir sang lovely songs.

Back in town, we head off to McSorley's (15 East 7th Street ), the oldest pub in New York, established in 1854, with saw dust strewn on the floor, the place is filled with history. Pepe our bartender informed us that there was only two beers on tap, McSorley's light and McSorley's dark. We ordered one of each, refreshing and delicious, it was happy hour so we ordered a few more.

Our neighborhood is such a cross section of the world. Food from a variety of cultures can be had here, from Thai to Polish, and everything in between. Not only is there a huge variety of various ethnic foods, they run the gamut of price ranges, from inexpensive eateries to pricey bistros. Something for everyone, and for anyone's budget.

We ended our day back on the Brooklyn Bridge, as the sun started to set. A few short days ago, the nights felt like an oven, but tonight, for the first time, we were sorry we did not bring our jackets. The view of Manhatten is spectacular from the bridge, and in the evening, New York takes on a different personality.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

New York Day 6

2010-06-30T20:24:00.009-04:00

We stepped out of the apartment and almost felt chilly at 25 degrees... and dry! What a wonderful feeling! It was a brilliant sunny and clear day, and we were off to Central Park.

Central Park is another New York icon that everyone knows, but that people too often do not take the time to explore. For excitement, weekends are probably best, with loads of people and street performers everywhere. While there are particular "sights" in Central Park, the true joy comes from the delight to slowly stroll through a quiet park, away from the noise and hustle and bustle of one the world's greatest Metropolis.

With the brilliant sun, Hera decided that today she was going to shoot infra-red. Infra-red is light that our eyes cannot see, and her infra-red lens filter effectively blocks out all visible light. Thus all her shots, must be shot on a tripod with long exposures. But is sure beats the days when we had to be careful that our infra-red film did not get exposed from simply being too hot, and having to load the camera inside a light proof bag.

We meandered in the lovely park, around pretty lakes, through romantic tunnels, over lawns and fields, the variety is quite amazing. Hera trudged along with her tripod, but she was in infra-red heaven as she so often said.

It is amazing how quickly one adapts to one's surroundings. The peaceful quiet of the park suddenly broke, and we were jarred back to the noise and traffic of New York. Back on 5th Avenue, we walked past several of the high end designer stores that we visited a few days ago, Hera picked up an item at Armani store.

We also walked past the Rockefeller Centre, that now had a Lego city sprouting up along the promenade. Children were having a blast creating small Lego buildings, that workers slowly added to the developing complex. There was even a line up today to walk into the Lego Store!

Walking along 47th Steet, we found ourselves on Jewelry Way. Store after store of fine jewelry. Even on the street corners, there were jewelry "vendors" plying their trade.

We stopped in an Irish Pub for supper, quench our thirst, and rest our legs. Without the heat and humidity we had suffered through over the past few days, today felt wonderfully refreshing, and our clothes were still dry!

Recharged, we made our way to Times Square.

Times Square is always a joy no matter what time of day one is there. And no matter how often one has been to Times Square, it is equally a joy to walk around and about it, criss crossing back and forth. Billboards and bright lights, stores and people, this place, more than any other, is New York.

New York Day 5

2010-06-29T20:08:00.012-04:00

Today's forcast high was again a hot 32 degrees celcius. Some people spend a fortune to work out in a hot steamy room, and we can do it for free.

We decided to explore the Brooklyn Bridge. Our walk took us first through the Jewish Lower East side. While there are many sights to be seen here, we spent most of our time walking down the long and narrow Sara Roosevelt Park for its shady trees.

Turning South on Bowery Street (which becomes St. James St.), we once again entered China Town. We walked past a notorious corner called "Bloody Angle" where at the turn of the century it was the sight of more murders than anywhere in the Us. The two short narrow crooked streets (Doyers and Pell Streets) were great places where two notorious Chinese tong gangs fought a 40 year turf war.

Heading first West on Worth Street, then South on Centre Street, we walked towards the the financial and legal centre of the city. Now and then we would look down a road, and remember where the Twin Towers once stood.

Soon enough we were at the foot for the Brooklyn Bridge. Everyone knows the bridge, but many never take the time to really experience the Bridge, and that is by walking it. It is a wonderfully designed structure that is a lesson for all city planners. While cars are still predominant, an exceptional walk and bike way in the centre above the roadway demonstrates that cars, bikes and pedestrians can all co-exist.

The bridge itself is a marvel of engineering in its time, and its history alone (well described on plaques) is worth the walk over the bridge. But what brought us here, was the view. With each step, one spectacular vista after another opened itself us for us to enjoy.

Brooklyn is usually overlooked by most, and is worth a visit on its own. On its own, it is the 5th largest city in the US. Soaking in sweat, hot and tired, it was time to refresh ourselves.

We came across a wonderful establishment called reBar (www.rebarnyc.com). Take a look at their website to see the lovely decor. With a large selection of beer, we asked advice. The waitress was friendly and very knowledgable. We wanted a good refreshing beer. She came back with a delicious, and dangerous, lemony ale called Saint Somewhere, that was refreshing like lemon-aid, but had a kick of 7% alcohol. Hera chose that one, but I felt for one that was more bitter and beer like. She came back with another taster of Clipper City, which I decided upon. Hoppy and lightly bitter, but with a long fruity after taste.

As for food, Hera decided on their Grilled Cheese, that was a mixture of Danish blue cheese, provolone, imported parmesan, with truffle oil, on a pressed ciabatta bread. I took their Pulled Pork sandwich, a delicious slow cook flavorful pork filled with an equally delightful sauce.

Refueled and refreshed, we took the nearby metro to head back into town. Once again I must stress, when visiting a city, learn how to use their transit system. Be it Paris or Rome, Prague or New York, they all are easy to use, and make visiting such a joy. And on such hot muggy days, essential for our survival.

We finally made it to B&H. If you are an electronic gadget lover, you will love B&H. Their photography section is legendary, with cameras galore, along with any possible accessory for it. We even came across a fellow Montrealer shopping there! But it is not just photography, they have a large selection of musical instruments, to telescopes, to a large selection of computers and peripherals.

We spent a fair bit of time at B&H, and could have spent more time walking into midtown, but we were getting tired, and decided it would be best to go back home.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

New York Day 4

2010-06-28T22:17:00.013-04:00

We awoke once again well rested. With the memories of the hot of muggy day yesterday, and today's forcasted high of 36 with a chance of thundershowers, we had to decide what to do. Long walking was definitetly out of the question, so we had thought that perhaps a day at a museum would be our destination for the day. We decided upon the Museum of Modern Art, and headed to the Metro.

Learning how to use the transit system in the places you visit is essential. Not only do you travel like the locals, but you get to experience another facet of the city that you would miss if you relied on taxis. And New York City's transit is so easy. While putting exact change (no bills) would be daunting to say the least, they allow you to get a transit card, and load up trips onto it. So we got one card, and bought 8 rides. I swiped it once, and Hera walked through the turnstile, and then I swiped it again and walked in after her.

We were so grateful that the metro was air conditioned. Relatively clean and very efficient, we made our way uptown, and got off at the Rockefeller Centre. A huge complex of 19 skyscrapers on 24 acres of land. Rockefeller was scoffed at when he unveiled his plans in 1929 because it was so far removed from the then financial centre of New York.

One building house the Lego store. A Lego lover's paradise where children could take Lego blocks from various dispensers and build their own projects. In front of the store, along the iconic view of Rockefeller Centre, workers were constructing a platform to hold the huge Big Apple that people will be able to create with Lego blocks over the next few days.

Leaving the Rockefeller Centre, we crossed 5th Avenue, and entered another New York icon, Sak's 5th Avenue. Next to it stood St. Patrick's Cathedral. We entered it briefly, long enough to light a candle, as a Mass was in progress.

We walked up 5th Avenue, venturing in various high end designer stores like Armani, Gucci, Tiffany, Cartier, and countless others. While the prices were high, their air conditioned stores proved a welcomed relief.

We were getting quite high up 5th Avenue, and I was sure we had passed the Museum of Fine Arts. While Hera took photos, I crossed the street and asked a policeman. Sure enough we had passed it, but turning around I noticed Trump Towers. We walked into it, and was amazed at the warm rust colored marble covering the floors and walls, with golden mirrors everywhere, and a 5 story waterfall cascading along another marble wall.

Feeling relatively refreshed each time we entered a buidling, we decided to drop our plans to spend our day at the museum, and instead keep walking the streets, and cooling off as we explored the deisgner stores. Again, it is the journey that counts, not the destination.

Later in the day, we found ourselves at Times Square. A bride and Jewish groom caught our eye, as they used Times Square as the back drop for their wedding photos. Hera captured an image of them that she is very excited about.

Times Square has changed. When I first visited Times Square, it was not exactly the most welcoming of places. Various seedy shops abounded, with seedier characters, and one could "smell" 47th Street stench of urine.

Each time we visited, the area has progressively cleaned and spruced itself up. Today, it is a family destination, with a huge Hershey's Store facing an equally huge, 3 story high M&M's chocolate store. Needless to say, after eating chocolate from both establishments, we too were getting a sugar rush along with the kids.

Times Square, which was once an adults playground, is now a Disney world for kids of all ages.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

New York Day 3

2010-06-28T19:08:00.013-04:00

Before leaving home, Hera was in touch with a New York model, and booked him for a late morning shoot today. She had spied a few possible locations in our neighborhood, and while a couple were used, she found a couple more as we walked to meet the model today. Jared was a pleasant gentleman, and very quickly, the two were involved in their shoot. Within 30 minutes, the shoot was finished.

Being near home, we decided to head back, hop into the grocery store, and pick up some items for lunch.

I love New York in Spring and Fall, even Winter. I do not particularly enjoy New York in summer, and today was one of those days why. It was already a hot and muggy 32 degrees, and we had to decide what to do. Walking amongst the sky scrapers would have been deadly, so we had first decided to go to the green and hopefully cooler Central Park. But the forecast had raised the spectre of thundershowers, and the air felt threatening.

Instead, we decided to walk amoung the nearby neighborhoods, where if it started to rain, we could duck quickly into a bar or restaurant.

If you like food, and I do, then this area is a pure joy. We past one restaurant that reminded us of Swartz's back home, and we will one day have to walk in and try their food. Nearby is another that has wonderful knishes, and a short walk further is a large modern food store with a huge selection of local produce. They had a beer section with rows upon rows of local and international beers, a huge selection of high end prepared foods, while another section had enourmous selection of cheese. We sampled a cheese, that we fell in love with, and later picked up on our way back home.

Once again we meandered down into Soho, looking into various shops. Once the mecca for the art world, now a shoppers paradise of fashionable clothing boutiques. Walking further South, we entered Chinatown. Filled with shops selling delicious looking fresh seafood next to gold jewelry shops that reminded us of Hong Kong.

We walked back up through Little Italy, packed with wonderful looking Italian restaurants, and came across an establishment we had discovered many years earlier. On one of our earliest trips to New York, we came across an old traditional looking taverna that seemed to step out of history. The old owner Tony stood behind his bar, and the old walls held pictures that included Reagan, Madona, Sinatra, Paccino, as well as various casts of movies such as Goodfellas. Hera had taken a photograph of it at the time, and printed it in our darkroom. A lovely black and white selenium toned print.

Several years ago, we again walked in, but the place was in transition, while today, it is a trendy watering hole. The bar and the layout is the same, but the photos are all gone, the walls are spruced up, and a little bit of history has been lost. Some photos in the windows are all that remain, of the traditional taverna that we once walked into.

By now, both Hera and I were soaking in sweat. Tired and exhausted by the heat, we made our way home early. Took a refreshing shower, rested, and had supper.

Usually I am quite good with upcoming events, but this time I completely missed it. 41 years ago, the police raided the Stonewall Inn at Greenwich Village, which soon erupted in a horibble riot. The year after, the first gay pride parade was held to remember the event. Today was the 40th Gay Pride Parade, the biggest in the world, and we missed it as we walked in the nearby neighborhoods.

After supper, we decided to head towards Greenwich village. We stepped out of our apartment and was greeted by wonderful music from a small band on the street for the restuarant a few doors away from our place.

As we walked, we passed several, children included, carrying their Gay Pride flags. We made our way and entered George Washington Square, where children cooled themselves in a fountain, musicians played, and acrobats entertained the crowds.

We continued walking towards Greenwich Village, and soon met throngs of revellers on the street. Many streets were closed off to traffic, and we followed the herd of people as we walked the tangle of streets that make this colorful neighborhood.

Again dripping in sweat, we slowly made our way home. Exhausted and soaked, we had to take another shower before bed.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera