Our Day 3 in London

Exploring a different bus route

Bus 23 is the closest and most practical bus for us. But today we wanted to explore and different route. It entailed a little walk towards the BBC buildings and a huge shopping complex called White City.

Bus route 9 leaves White City and meanders through a different section of London. Passing Notting Hill Gate, it follows the north border of Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park. Intersecting route 23 at the Marble Arch, it turns south along the edge of the park down to the ROyal Mews. It then continues past Westminster Cathedral, then it is on to Westminster Abbey and the Houses of Parliament of Westminster Castle.

Hopping off the bus, we were engulfed by the throng of tourists milling about. We made our way past them, as we wanted to start our walk at Westminster Bridge.

Westminster Bridge offers a wonderful panorama of London. Big Ben chimes away, as we take in the view. Westminster Castle dominates the view, and we can see the towers of Westminster Abbey. Behind us, the London Eye is a recent addition but is already an icon of London. Beneath us, the River Thames flows.

In the 11th century, King Edward the Confessor moved West London, and built a church (Minster) and a castle, thus the name WestMinster. The king ruled here for centuries, but slowly, as the populace wanted more say in affairs, nobles were allowed to meet, creating the House of Lords. Soon the common man too wanted a say, and a House of Commons was started, and Royalty decided to move once again.

One can feel the power that has been weilded here for all these years as we strolled along Whitehall, the road that leads to Westminster. Offices of power line the street. Downing Street intersect Whitehall, and we peered through the gates for the famous address of 10 Downing Street, home of the Prime Minister.

A bit further up the road is the Banqueting House. An impressive buidling, but with an even more impressive history. This was where Royalty lost its divine right to rule with the beheading of King Charles I. Royalty soon resumed power, but this time its right to rule came from Parliament.

Even more impressive is the knowledge that this was but part of what was once the largest castle in all of Europe. A Castle that stretched from Trafalgar Square to Westminster. All but this building burnt down.

A little bit further up Whitehall we encountered the Horse Guards. Elite fighting men, guard the entrance to Buckingham Palace. They are the Queen's personal bodyguards.

Ahead of us we could see Lord Nelson atop his column. Traflagar Square is a busy intersection that links various sections of London. Down Whitehall is Westminster, down the Mall is Buckingham Palace, and Pall Mall leads towards St. James Palace. East is what is called the City, or the old London.

After people watching a bit, we walked down Northumberland, to cross the Golden Jubillee bridge to get a different perspective of Westminster and the Eye of London.

Finding an old English Pub, we had a late lunch, and gave our feet a rest. We befriended a very pleasant family nex to us, and we promised them that we would go and see the Sherlock Holme's museum.

After our lunch, we entered the Mall with Buckingham Palace before us. But a few steps inside, and we noticed a park off to the side. St. James Park is a wonderful oasis from the hustle and bustle of London's streets. We wandered along its refreshing paths, enjoying lovely beds of flowers and brids galore. Ducks and ducklings, swans and herrons.

As we exited the Park, back onto the Mall, we came across a newly married couple. What a wonderful location for some wedding locations.

We wandered about to Piccadilly street, window shopped the impressive stores, and found ourselves in Piccadilly Circus. We darted in and out a few streets here and there, and found London's Chinatown. After strolling its streets, we decided it was getting late, and decided to have supper here.

Time flies way too fast. We found our 23 bus stop, and made our way back home.

Cheers,

Hera & Anthony

Our Second Day In London

Discovering the bus

We managed to stay awake until 9pm last night, and then fell asleep soundly. We awoke a good 12 hours later. 9 am might be lated for the locals, but that is 4 am Montreal time. However, we felt well rested, fresh, and most importantly almost in sync with London time.

Our first task for the day, was to discover the local grocery store, and get some basic groceries for the week. A short walk through a small neighborhood path, led us to the corner store. Small but well stocked for our basic supplies, and sl close by.

In our apartment was a good foldout map of the bus routes for Central London, but our place was just off the map. We were told that 7, 70 and 316 buses were very close by, but I was not sure exactly where. The morning walk to the grocery store was fortuitous, as we found the bus stop for the 7 and 70 buses.

My original plan for the day was to head towards Westminster, the heart of typical London. However I came across a section talking about the East End and the Sunday Markets. The 23 bus, which I knew stopped at the nearby Underground station meandered through town and ended its route at Liverpool Street, in the East End.

One should be flexible in planning, and this change was well worth it.

The 23 bus is a double decker bus, so we headed up top and grabbed a seat. While the day had started off partly cloudly with a low chance of rain, it started to rain as we entered the bus. Soon it poured, and I made a note to myself to consider multiple plans, with options in case of rain.

We will no doubt take the tube, and underground travel is usually the quickest here, or in any other city, but if you can, always try and use the bus. What sights are to be seen in tunnels?

While it rained, we watched the changing vistas that unfolded before us. We got to the corner of Hyde Park, went along the shopping streets that Hera used to tour when she was in the fashion industry, to Piccadilly Circus, the equivalent of New York's time Square, with Theatres, flashing adds, and high end shopping. The bus the continues it way along the picturesque streets of London, passing by Trafalgar Square with Lord Nelson's Column, spying the Mullenium Bridge down a street, as the bus made its way to St.Paul's Cathedral, and then finally terminated at Liverpool Street.

Liverpool Station is a bustling station, but one of the unfortunate ones that was bombed during the London Bombings a few years ago.

This neighborhood has a surprisingly old history that dates back to Roman times when it was the burial site for the Roman city of Londinium. In 1197 it became the site of the priory "The New Hospital of St. Mary without Bishopgate." Later it was know as St. Mary Spital, and it became one of the largest medieval hospitals in England. At one point, they leased land to the longbow, crossbow and gunners (artillery), hence the names of some streets like Artillary Lane.

Henry the Eight dissolved the priory and hospital, but soon the Huguenots (French Protestants) who were expelled from France sought refuge here, bringing their silk talents making this the center for silk in England. King Charles II granted a silk thrower, John Balch a Royal Charter to hold a market on Thursdays and Saturdays.

Later Jews sought refuge from the pograms of Eastern Europe, bringing with them their culture and cuisine. Reading a historical note on the street, it mentioned how they brought their Jewish method of battering and frying fish, and married it with the local chips, to make.... Fish and Chips!

The Spitalfields Market here is defintely worth a visit, especially on Sundays when the market is in full gear filled with stalls and eateries. This is also the area of Jack the Ripper. The Ten Bells Pub, the hangout of one of Jack's ladies is here along with Christ Church.

This is also the neighborhood of London's Bangladeshi community. This is a place to eat! While wonderful restaurants line the streets, on Sundays, food stalls also abound. And near the end of the day, they drop their prices even further. We entered a food court filled with food stalls, each with thier own unique foods. From Ethiopian to Mexican, Chinese and Japanese, even a Turkish-Indian fusion stall.

For 2 and a 1/2 pounds we selected two different and delicious Ethiopian plates that were loaded with a variety of foods. Filled, we meandered a bit, and a girl at a Thai stalled enticed us to sample her food. It was delicious, so we split another coconut-Thai chicken plate for another 3 pounds.

Just a bit further, the area opens up to an eclectic street scene. A great place to people watch. One girl walking arm in arm with another girl sported a delicate tatoo on her legs that looked like fine laced stockings. And the contrast with the Muslim neighboorhood just steps away, with women fully clothed is a sight to behold. We also sampled a delicious honey covered treat.

We meandered about the narrow lanes and streets, and thought of the Industrial Revolution. Oliver Twist and jack the Ripper.

Getting late, we got back onto our bus 23 to make our way back home. We went up top, and grabbed two front seats. While I had considered getting off at Piccadilly Circus for a pint of beer, Hera was having a blast shooting photo after photo trhough the smeared glass window of the bus.

Home, we relaxed. Me with a beer, and Hera with a glass of wine.

Cheers,

Hera & Anthony

Our First Day In London

We were off once again.

While we had booked the trip months earlier, and it had seemed so far away, suddenly the day to leave was upon us. Our bags packed, our good friend Frank drove us to the airport.

What a pleasure it is to fly direct. What a pleasure it is not to have to fly into the US along with the US custom controls. We checked in online, dropped off our bags, and flew through customs.

Montreal to London is a relatively short flight, but they still managed to squeeze in a supper and a breakfast. A movie, a futile attempt to nap, and we were landing in London.

Prior to leaving, we had called via Skype to book up a private cab to pick us up at a fairly reasonable price. Tired, we spotted our name on a card, and he drove us to our new home for the next 2 weeks.

It is an adorable charming little basement apartment in a very lovely neighborhood. The layout is compact and efficient with a hide a way bed. Stepping outside, is a darling little garden.

As we walked about the neighborhood, we were struck how lush everything is. A variety of flowers perfumed the air, as we noted bamboo and palm trees growing in some gardens.

Staying awake the first day is of prime importance. The day is hard, and feels excessively long, but it is the only way to quickly adapt to the time change. While it is only 5 pm now, Hera and I are struggling a bit to stay awake.

One of my big goals for this first day was to be sure I got a local SIM card, and that I could unlock my phone.

I recently purchased the Samsung Galaxy S2, a wonderful smart phone, but roaming charges from our Canadian providors are exhorbitant, and after hearing stories of how some people came home with astronomical charges, I almost did not bring my phone.

I was under the impression that the CRTC had ordered the phone companies to provide unlocking services, but I had to fight tooth and nail to get the unlocking code for my phone. They were claiming they could only unlock the phone after 30 days, at which time I would be back. I argued that such a claim made no sense if I had a 3 year contract, and that neither the contract I signed nor their web site mentioned such a 30 day delay. Finally the gave me the code.

To put things in perspective, my roaming charges would cost me $15 to $25 per megabyte. With a local UK SIM card, for about $16 dollars I have 500 megabytes. 500 times cheaper!

With my phone happy with a new local SIM card, we were off to accomplish our last goal for the day.

We entered an Underground station to get our 7 day travel cards. 2 weeks of unlimited travel costed each of us 60 pounds! Expensive yes, but well worth it.

So often I had said that to really know a city, you need to ride its transit system. There is no city like London that drives this point home. The Underground IS part of what London is all about. Along with its double decker buses too of course!

Getting our travel cards is only the first step. Over the next few days we will have to learn how to use the Underground and the buses effectively.

With our goals accomplished, we were free to do as we pleased. I had noted on the map that Portobello Market was not too far off our route, and we could have hit it first. But I new we might dally. Strolling the bustling street after we did our day's work allowed us to enjoy the street market at our leisure, albeit in a fatigued state.

Street vendors sell the various wares, food merchants sell their produce, and a variety of ethnic stalls delights the nose. We had already grabbed a bite earlier, and were nolonger hungry, but I would not be surpirsed if we end up there soon enough.

We did pick up some produce, and spying a spice store made a bee line to it to buy some spices.

Without the energy of Portobello Market, the last leg home was a long and arduous twenty minute walk. We most definitely need to learn the transit system.

Walking in, and walking home, we came across of line of bikes that reminded us of the Bixi Bikes of Montreal. Actually, they are from Montreal!

It will be an early day for us. But we did manage to stay awake and accomplish the important tasks.

For a light meal, Hera made tapas out of an Indian hot pickled egg plant spread we picked up at the Spice Shop. We opened a bottle of the chilled Australian Chardonnay that our hosts provided, along with a few other welcome home goodies.

Photographer's note: All images today were shot with Lumix GH2 and a 20mm Lumix f/1.7 lens. Except the first and last shot. Samsung Galaxy SII smart phone was used for these two shots.

Cheers,

Hera & Anthony