Our Eleventh Day In Florence

Time is passing by way too quick, and we planned on visiting some nearby cities. So we started our day by going to the bus station, ask our questions, and plan some out of town visits.

Buying our tickets for tomorrow's trip to Siena, we walked back into town.

Hera visited some shops, from the Chic and Expensive, to the everyday boutiques. For shoppers, Florence has it all. But only appreciated by those who can appreciate such sights, and I am not counted as one of them.

As usual, we found ourselves once again at the Duomo. We decided that today was finally going to be the day to visit this Cathedral which so dominates Florence.

While everyone calls it the Duomo, its name is Santa Maria del Fiore. One of the largest churches ever built, it was started in 1296, before the technology to complete it even existed. A huge gaping hole remained until Brunelleshi came along in 1436. His dome was the largest ever built since the Roman Era.

 

The exterior of the church is not the original. Originally, only the lower third of the facade was ever completed. As the styles changed with the years, it was decided to update the exterior, and the old facade was removed. It remained without a facade for centuries. With Italy's creation last century, the completion of the church was "rushed," and the today's facade was created.

People have varying reactions to this facade. In the sun, it is way too bright, and it is best viewed on an overcast day.

The interior is vast. Both Hera and I felt that the "spirit" of the church was not really present. Just as in Saint Peter's in Rome, a hollowness seems to ring in the empty space. Is it because most who enter the Church, enter as tourists?

As our custom, we lit a candle and said a prayer.

Next we walked around and then visited the Baptistry. We gazed upon the magnificient doors, again sorry that we were not able to see the originals in the museum.

The Baptistry at one time was where everyone of Florence was baptized. Originally surrounded by a cemetary, it was an appropriate symbol.

The interior reminds one of the Pantheon of Rome, while the gorgeous mosaics on the ceiling are clearly Byzantium. The floor has Arabic Motifs, while the walls pay homage to the Germanic heritage of the Holy Roman Empire. We might forget today, but these four empires were very much present in the minds of the poeple of the time.

We walked about, up and down some streets that we had previously strolled, and decided to stop at a cafe for a beer and to people watch.

Florence is filled with friendly and helpful people. We noticed that on our first day. The agent at the Toruist Information booth was very friendly and helpful, and this friendliness was repeated over and over, again and again. It even seems to spill over into the tourists as well.

Yesterday, while gazing at the Duomo, we came across a couple from Bordeaux, France. We chatted for quite some time yesterday, talking about sites we visited to politics. As we enjoyed our beer, and people watched, they walked by. We called out. And once again, we talked for over an hour with Christian and Veronique. They finished off their gelatos, while we nursed our beer.

Florence is not only a delightful city, but a friendly one as well.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

Tasting Typical Tuscan Food In Florence

Last night Hera and I decided to go to Ristorante del Fagioli, a near by family run restaurant located at 47/r Corso Tintori, just south of Santa Croce church. (Tel 055 244285)

We were not too sure what to expect. Most restaurants have a wide assortment of pastas and pizzas, but none of this was to be found on their menu.

An Italian gentleman entered ahead of us, and the waiter asked if he had reservations which he had, and was ushered in. We had none, but being early, they had a place for us. If possible do make reservations, as the restaurant soon filled up with locals who seemed to be regular patrons, with a few tourists here and there.

The wine menu was easier to understand than their food menu. We decided to enjoy ourselves and chose the 2007 Avignonese Vino Noblile di Montepulciano. The friendly waiter agreed our wine choice was excellent an excellent one, and he was more than happy to explain the menu to us.

He poured a small portion of wine, and the nose was fabulously aromatic and full. I took a sip, and felt the harsh pungent flavours almost sear my throat. The wine was good, but needed to breath a bit before it could really be enjoyed. (This is true for many good wines of this region. Let the wine sit and breath a bit in your glass.)

A few minutes later, the wine started to open, offering its full bodied flavors that did not disappoint. This was a wine to be sniffed and slowly savoured.

We started our meal sharing an appetizer of Crustini tipico, small pieces of bread with a rustic liver pate that made us realized we were in a treat for some good local cuisine.

For our first course, we ordered two of their soups. We had mentioned that we wanted to taste each others meals, and they happily obliged us. Bringing one soup at a time in the center of our table, and a bowl for each of us.

The first was a Riboliita. Ribolita basically means reboiled leftovers usually with beans, vegetables and bread. The dish was exquisite, with white beans and spinach.

The second soup was called a bread soup, and this one was equally good. A tomato based soup, with lemony hints, thickened with bread.

Bakeries have various sorts of bread, and we had bought Toscan bread. Though it has a great crust, the bread itself is non-descript, but it is excellent to soak up the flavours of our soups and the meals to follow.

We had meant to take a photo of the menu to remember the names of the dishes, but we forgot.

For main courses, we chose two different meat dishes. Hera decided upon the roll of fried meat with a potato filling, while I had a roll of meat stuffed with artichokes and mozarella in a tomato sauce. The hearty meals were delicious.

As a side dish, we ordered some fresh porcini mushrooms that they sauteed simply in olive oil, letting the full flavours of the mushrooms present itself for our enjoyment.

For dessert, we enjoyed some Almond Biscoti dipped in Vin Santo.

The ambiance of the restaurant was joyful and festive, the food, rustic, delicious and filling. We learned later that this restuarant had been accepted and approved by the    http://www.accademiaitalianacucina.it/en_index.php

Another must dining experience for all who visit Florence.

For a quick visit follow this link....

http://www.geobeats.com/videoclips/italy/florence/del-fagioli

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

Our Ninth & Tenth Day In Florence

Yesterday was a lazy day for us. Something that is needed now and then. After all, this is a vacation, and being here for three weeks, there is no rush.

One of the first things we did do when we arrived in Florence, was to find the nearest Tourist Information. Most provide good free toursit maps of the city, as well as hand outs of local attractions. We were also given the "The Florentine," a free bi-weekly English newspaper chocked full of useful articles. When you visit Florence, look for the paper, and ask for it if you do not see it. And before leaving for Florence, read their on-line version http://www.theflorentine.net , to start getting you acclimated to this wonderful city.

Hera had contacted them the week before, and they had invited us to drop by their offices. Florence is a compact city, and their offices were just a short walk away at via dei Banchi 4.

We were warmly greeted by them all, they even opened a bottle of wine for us. They asked us about our trip, and we learned more about each of them, as well as the mysterious Tom Fork.

Today, we were back to our usual routine.

We started with a visit to the ever enjoyable Mercato Centrale to pick up more fresh produce. Including lovely large fresh porcino mushrooms, another bottle of wonderfully full flavoured olive oil, and of course, more cheese.

We visited the Museum of San Marco, which unfortunately closes early most days. Fra Angelico had turned down an offer to become Archbishop of Florence, prefering to remain prior (head monk). But he did not turn down the offer to move the Domincan community from near by Fiesole to the new monastery that Cosimo de' Medici built in1439.

Believing art is a form of prayer, Fra Angelico went about painting the new monastery, creating masterpieces as he decorated. There are several large impressive works, as well a numerous paintings in each cell that the monks lived in. I had always envisioned the cells of monks to be tiny. While these rooms are not large, most are of an adequate size.

Several artists were produced by this community, another famous one was Fra Bartolomeo who worked the generation after Fra Angelico. Fra Bartolomeo also painted another famous resident here, brother Savonarola. When the Medici banks failed a couple of years after Lorenzo the Magnificient's death, Savonarola lead a popular ousting of the Medici family that the town felt was morally and politically bankrupted.

At first Savonarola was warmly greeted, as he made Florence a constitutional republic, shifting power from the Medici's and other wealthy families, giving it back to the people. His sermons were spell binding, as he railed against the corruption of the Church and worldly goods. But politics is a dirty business, and the Medici's re-grouped in Rome, and with the backing of the Church and neighboring powers, Savonarola was undermined. And just like today, the populace is fickle with a short memory. He was hanged, and then burned. We are just as fickle today, but no where as harsh when we vote out the old government. Heads do not roll anymore.

One of the delights of Florence, is to simply walk her streets. Deciding not to head back towards the tourist sites, we simply strolled, and came across a near by square called the Piazza della Annunziata and the Hospital of the Innocents. I sat on the steps, as I looked about the square, while Hera snapped photo after photo. Only a gelato can silence her camera.

All roads lead to the Duomo, or so it seems in Flroence, and we found ourselves again at this spectacular church. A week and a half in Florence, and we have yet to step inside.

Behind the church, is the Museum of the Duomo, and today we decided to tour it. Originally this was the workshop for the artists (including where Michelangelo created his David), it now houses many of the original pieces of the Duomo, as well as the Baptistry doors and sculputres that adorn Giotto's tower.

There are many wonderful pieces of art here, including Michelangelo's last work, without a commission, that he intended as his own monument for his tomb.

Michelangelo sculpted himself in Nicodemus who is lowering the crucified Christ into the waiting arms of Mary Magdalene and his Mother Mary. Seen head on, the three seem to struggle with the body of Jesus. But when viewed from the left, Mother Mary is not seen, and the hood covers Nicodemus' face, leaving just Mary Magdalen lifting her arms to receive Jesus. While when viewed from the right side, Mary Magdalene is hidden, and we see Jesus in the arms of his Mother Mary, with Nicodemus looking down from above.

It is a poweful sculpture, but something provoked Michelangelo to destroy it this unfinished work. Fortunately, the pieces were kepted, and an assistant later put the broken pieces back together.

One work that we were eager to see, doors of the Baptistry, was not available for viewing. Michelangelo had said these doors were fit to be the "Gates of Paradise." The copies on the Baptistry are quite spectacular in itself, and it is a pity that we could not see the real ones. Perhaps we need to return to Florence one day.

Cheers,

Anhony & Hera

A Florentine Gastronomical Evening With Friends

The skies were threatening, and the occaissional drop of rain fell as we made our way across the Duomo towards Santa Maria Nouvella. We were to meet our new friends at the Hotel Orlogio's trendy comfortable bar (http://www.hotelorologioflorence.com/ ). They had an appetizing selection of drinks, and Hera decided upon a smokey martinin which was delicious. I felt thirsty, and settled for a simple gin and tonic.

Within moments, we realized we had met a couple of great new friends. Sandro and Donata were warm and enchanting, and we felt we had known them for years. Little did we know at the time, what was soon to unfold.

I am certainly spoiled by Hera's excellent cooking. With fresh produce on hand, wonderful cheeses, fresh pastas, and delicious olive oils, we eat very well. There is always a charm to sit outdoors with a drink, some food, and watch the world walk by. Most meals we have had in Italian restaurants were very good. But I cannot say they were exceptional. Tourists like food they can relate to, and most restaurants cater to them. And I admit, we enjoyed them as well.

But tonight, I felt we finally ate "real " Florentine cuisine, albeit in an updated fashion. It was not only exceptional, it was exquisite. (Purists might argue with me and say it is more an Italian fusion cuisine, rather than specifically Florentine.)

Sandro and Donata had made reservations at Cenacolo del Pescatore (http://www.cenacolodelpescatore.it/en.html), just a short walk away.

The decor is elegant. The hostess, warm and welcoming. As you walk to your table, you feel your expectations rise, but there is no hint of any pretentions.

Perusing the menu, left me a bit confused. The descriptions all sounded interesting and delicious. Sandro recommended we take their multi-course meal, and let the chef decide, something I too would suggest to anyone visiting the restaurant.

Sandro chose a Ribolla Gialla, from Friuli-Venezia Giulia region of northern Italy, on the border of Slovenia and Austria. A medium bodied, refreshing white wine. An excellent choice for the seafood we were soon to eat.

As an appetizer, we were served Paccheri Pizza, with beer jelly cubes and crumbled almonds. Paccheri are a short rigatoni type pasta typical of southern Italy, and dressed with a tomato topping, they reminded one of little pizzas as they briefly transported us to Napoli. To add to the dish, we were each served a small glass of beer.

The next appetizer had us eating deep fried shrimps, shrouded in Rice noodles.

The first course had the ladies eating Octopus served in three ways. Steamed, grilled and deep fried, sitting on a bed of luscious mashed potatoes, with a shot glass of octupus stock in the middle of the platter. I had a taste of two of the three, and I must admit, it was the most delicious octupus I ever had.

Sandro and I were served "Pescatore Styled Bread Salad," a square of bread topped with mussels and squid, with tomatoes and onions. The flavours were delicate and full, perfectly balanced, with no flavour over powering another.

Next we were served a carpaccio of squid and shrimp with cherry tomatoes, mozarella and olive oil. It tastes as delicious as it sounds.

Followed by a cream soup of cannellini beans with mussels. The delicate flavours tickling our taste buds.

It was time for another bottle, and Sandro again chose an excellent bottle of the Sicilian Cometa by Planeta. A white wine that Hera found its nose reminded her of Ice Wine. I agreed, its nose was full with hints of apricots. The taste, was far more subtle and refined, and accompanied our meal perfectly.

The ladies were then served a Tagliatelle with Oyster and lime sauce, while we were served a Porcini Mushroom Risoto with Tarantine Mussels. Each dish was excellent. And at risk of repeating myself, the myriad of flavors where all quite distinct, complementing and never out competing each other.

As a final course, the women were served a Pezzogna (white fish) in a tomato and olive broth, delicate and delicious, while we were served a Lobster salad with a sumptious mayonaise. Need I say it was wonderful?

We were full, but Sandro encouraged us to at least share some desert. So he order a goat cheese cheese cake, the lightest phenomenal cheesecake I ever tasted, while I, quite full, ordered the lemon sorbet. How a sorbet can be this delicious and refreshing I do not know.

Chef Daniele Pescatore deserves accolades for his fine cuisine. Not only is it exceptionally stunning to look at, the flavours are so varied, multi-layered, and as I mentioned a few times above, never over shadowing one another. A true delight in every possible way.

While Cenacolo del Pescatore is not inexpensive, it not really expensive either. One really gets value for the money, and it is a place I would strongly recommend everyone to try on their visit to Florence. It has certainly been a highlight of our visit thus far. (http://www.cenacolodelpescatore.it/en.html)

We thank our new friends Sandro and Donata for taking us here, and of course, we must thank chef Daniele Pescatore and his wonderful team for giving us such a wonderful night we will remember and cherish.

Photographer's note:  As a photograper, Chef Daniel's plates are all about pure visual art and sublime taste. I photographed them under natural low light, light only by candles, hand held. The shots are mere snap shots.

Cheers,

Anhony & Hera