Thursday, September 23, 2010

Our Fifth Day In Florence

We believe that a vacation, is a exactly that, a vacation. And that can mean at times taking our time, sleeping in a bit before picking up some groceries, then loitering at our apartment in with a long brunch. We really are never in a rush, and takes things as they present themselves.

That being said, it is always good to check the hours that sites are open.

On our first day at the tourist office, after a local toursit map, the next item I picked up was a hand out on all the opening hours of the various museums. It lists the hours they are open and the days they are closed. That first day, we learned from the helpful tourist agent, that the David was going to be "free" tonight, from 7-9 pm.

Our general plan for the day, was to walk past the Academia, where the David stands, then visit the museum of San Marco a bit further north, head back and enter the Palazzo Medici Riccardi, meander back and take a break back at our apartment, then go back out to see "David."

We wandered along now familiar streets, around the Duomo, and then turned up via Ricasoli. Passing the Accademia, we once again saw the infamous line ups. Would we really see "David" for free tonight?

We arrived at San Marco around 13:30. Doors are often closed, but then looking at the adjoining sign, it read that it closes at 13:50. Most museums close their doors for admittance 30 minutes before closing. I should have read my handout on museum hours.

At least we explored two new streets that we had yet to walk, as we walked back down on via Cavour towards the Palazzo Medici Riccardi.

The founder of the Medici's, Cosimo the elder, rejected Brunelleschi's design for being "too sumptuous... liable to stir envy...," and decided on Martolomeo's much more austere design, which then became the prototype of Renaissance civic architecture.

The star attraction, is the family's private chapel, the Chapel of the Magi, magnificantly painted by Benozzo. If you do not have any written material about the place, the 1Euro information brochure is definitely worth the cost for this chapel alone.

While the chapel does demand attention, what I most enjoyed were the rooms. It gives a real sense of place. While elaborate, it still feels that it was a real home, albeit for one of tremendous wealth. One of the rooms called the Gallery, again sumptiously decorated, with mirrors along one side, reminded me of Versailles, but in better taste.




The rediscovery of the classic world "is" the Renaissance. We often forget, that this appreciation started here. The basement rooms hold a collection of their Roman and Hellenistic scultures that they collected.

Hera had her mind on a particular unconventional design for a purse. With time in hand, we walked over to the Leather School behind Santa Croce. A quiet comfortable garden leads onto an unobtrusive entrance to the Leather School created by the Franciscan monks to give orphaned boys of WWII a trade. Their exceptional craftmanship is a delight to behold, with reasonably priced items.




We then entered and toured Santa Croce itself. One of Florence's oldest churches, it holds the remains of many illuminaries from Michelangelo to Galileo, Rossini to Donatelli. The artwork is lovely, but what captivated me was the elegant ribbed wood ceiling, In such places I find that it is important to simply sit, and enjoy. There is always more to see, but it is important to stop, and appreciate.






Santa Croce also holds part of St. Francis of Assisi's tunic, and a museum in the monks' old dining hall, housing several other pieces of artwork.

One of Santa Croce's stories is the devasting flood of 1966 that it and the city of Flroence suffered. The Arno River flooded its banks, and the water rose midway up the doors. And when the water's receded, it left behind an enormous amount of mud. Much art was horribly damaged, but the outpouring of support, and meticulous restoration, has fortunately restored much of it.



Florentine's are known as the "bean eaters," but so few restaurants seem to have such traditional Florentine fare on their menu's. When in Rome, do as the Roman's, when in Florence, eat as a Florentine... So Hera cooked up a delicious Cannellini Rustica dish. (White beans in a seasoned tomato sauce with shavings of Parmigiano cheese.)

Well fed, and rested, we headed back out, wondering if we were really going to see "David" for free. As we approached, we saw the typical line. Were we supposed to get our tickets in advance? The line started to move, and we entered the Accademia. I knew the "David" was just in the room to my left, where everyone was headed, but I took my time in the first room to appreciate the works of art.

When I did enter, and look down the corridor, I caught my breath. David is indeed a sight to behold. Perfectly exhibited, perfectly lit, it is captivating. Walking down the corridor, one's eyes are fixated on the changing perspective of this magnificient sculpture, totally oblivious to the other works of Michelangelo that line the corridor.

Why is it so wonderful? I am really not sure. Critically, I do not find it a really pretty sculpture. Even though I know it was designed to be placed high above the southern roofline of the Duomo, and thus purposely has a larger head, I still find it's hands to be to big too, nor am I really enamoured by his legs. But looking at it as a whole, I am still amazed at how beautiful it is.

We lingered, and enjoyed the other pieces of wonder art at the Accademia, only to return and once again gaze upon David. Thus far, I must admit, despite all the magificient art I have seen in Florence, this piece has been the only piece that has impressed me so much.

Enjoying another gelato, we meandered about, window shopped, and ended up again at the Piazza della Signoria, where we noticed a few musicians setting up in front of the Palazzo Vecchio. We found a place to sit, watched the crowds, and enjoyed a free outdoor concerto.



Florence is a lovely city.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera