You do not want a car in large cities like Florence, nor do you need them for other fair sized places like Siena which one can easily buy inexpensive bus or train tickets, but to have the freedom to explore at your own pace and whim requires a car.
It is probably best to rent a car before leaving home, but yesterday we easily were able to book a car for today. We had been promised a map, but I should have bought one on my own, as the one they gave us was for the whole of Italy. Usually one can buy a good large scale map at a gasoline station, but being Sunday, they had no attendants, and thus we were left with no good map of our own.
My advice, would be to avoid touring on Sundays. Not only are most stores closed, but so are all the Tourist Information booths you will pass by on your trek.
We had told the attendant at the car rental agency that we did not want to travel on the highway, but to remain on the small roads. He suggested that as we left the environs of Florence, to look for and head towards the town of Impruneta.
At least that had us on a small road, and we kepted looking for small towns and just headed in their direction.
We made our way back down the mountain road, and got back onto our small winding country road, and headed towards the towns of Greve in Chianti then Castelina in Chianti. We were deep in the heart of Chianit region. The views are nothing but stunning, rolling hills covered in vineyards, and even in the car, we would get the occaissional whiffs of crushed grapes as we drove.
The road took us to Siena, a town we had recently visited. Lovely, but we wanted to remain in the country. I had to ask directions to get me out of Siena, but we were soon back onto a small country road, heading south towards Asciano.
Equally beautiful, this region, so close to the Chianti region we were in, is so completely different. Instead of vineyards, the rolling hills were recently plowed. At times, we would come across an unplowed feilds of sunflowers past their prime. This place must have been spectacular a couple of months early when the sunflowers were all lush and full.
Although we were close to the world famous Chiana beef region, our sights were on the small town of Montacino. The place were the exceptional wines of Brunello di Montalcino are made.
Once again we followed a narrow windy road up the mountain to the hilltop fortress of Montacino, and parked our car. We walked about the small town, and though I hesitated, the lovely touristy wine bar in a delightful setting seduced me.
We ordered a sample of their wines, along with a plate of cheese and cold cuts. We tasted 5 of their Brunello wines including their Cerbaiona 2005, Elia Cru 2004, Conti Costanti Riserva 2004, Santa Caterina D'Oro Ciacci Piccolomini Riserva 2004, and their Soldena Riserva 2004.
All impressive wines, but both Hera and I were disappointed by them. They were good, but both the aromas and tastes were way too subdued for such wines. Nor was the tasting inexpensive, but it was a touristy place we were sitting at.
As we walked about the small town, we decided to walk into a small wine shop. We were greeted very warmly and asked if we would like to try some of their wines. She even opened a bottle of one that we were curious about, poured a generous sample, and we tasted the Brunello's that we were used to. A full wonderful nose, and a complex full bodied taste. We ended buying 2 bottles of their Bartoli Giusti 2003, and their 2003 Riserva. While they can age another 10-15 years, I doubt they will survive the next couple of days. (http://www.bartoligiusti.it/)
Anthony & Hera
