Oh La La! We Are In Paris... Our Day Thirteen... by Montreal photographer Hera Bell and her husband Anthony

 

 

Yesterday we returned to Montparnasse Tower in the evening.

 

Usually I like to travel near the end of Spring.  A great time, as the weather is usually good but not too hot, the tourists have not yet completely taken over, and the days are longer.

Unfortunately, this time, the weather did not comply, it was often cool and wet.  But even worse, Paris is quite north and thus the days are very long.  Sunset is close to 10 pm, and the gorgeous Paris lights do not get turned on until after 10.  So I would suggest to travel in September for Paris.  We’ve been here in September and that offers good weather, and the lights get turned on much earlier.

High on Montparnasse Tower, we had a spectacular view of Paris as the sun was setting.  And then, at 10pm, the Eiffel tower shimmers in sparkling lights for 5 minutes before the regular lights light it up.  I believe at at the top of each hour, it shimmers again for 5 minutes.  

As usual, we started our day with a croissant a piece.  But we also shared a Flan, and a scrumptious millefeuille.  The French do know how to make pastry, and do not deprive yourself.  Go ahead and indulge

Off to the Opera Garnier, we bought our entrance tickets and then walked in.  Grand is an understatement.  The entrance with the grand staircase is as large as the auditorium.   The architect purposely designed the staircase to show off women in their long gowns at their very best.  

Lovely balconies are found overlooking the grand entranceway as he knew that “being seen” was of utmost importance.

The plush red velvet was also chosen on purpose.  The reflected red would leave a highly complementary pink blush on the skin of women.  Again, showing the women off at their very best.

 

We do forget that the times have changed.  Today, going to the Opera is a serious affair.  While just a century ago, it was much less for the Opera, and more the social outing.  Seeing and being seen was at least as important, perhaps more so, than the performance on stage.

 

Taking our turn to be seen, we took a seat at the Opera cafe, and enjoyed a drink.  We sat back and relaxed.

 

Back on our feet, we came across the Pierre Herme  pastry shop.  We had met a charming Australian couple the night before at Montparnasse Tower who raved about it.  So we bought a couple of macarons to give it a try.  They were indeed wonderful.

 

We walked about the neighborhood, and came to the Ritz, but we were disappointed that it was completely closed and is being renovated.  A pity, as it would have been lovely to walk inside for a glimpse.

 

Besides seeing the Opera house, another goal of ours today was to try out Angelina   on rue Rivoli.

 

 

 

Decisions decisions.  So hard to choose.  I decided to go for the house specialty, the Mont Blanc while Hera went for the St. Honore, they were scrumptious!  Although I think if I was to choose again, I should have tried a millefeuille here.  We also each had a cup of hot African Chocolate, that was like drinking the best chocolate imaginable.  

So much sweets today!  And like I said before, I do not have a sweet tooth!  But that does not matter when in Paris.

While we walked about, we came across a shop that claims to be the best chocolate shop in Paris.  With a life size jaguar made out of chocolate in one window display, while the next window had huge ribs made out of chocolate.  The interior looked divine.  But with so much sweets today, we just could not give it a try.

 

A good day of walking and eating sweets, we finally settled down at a bistro and had our supper.  Hera just wanted a Greek salad, while I went for the special of the day, Dui du Boucher, a piece of beef and a piece of veal, with a lovely pepper sauce on the side.

Oh La La! We Are In Paris... Our Day Ten... by Montreal photographer Hera Bell and her husband Anthony

 

  Today we were off to Vaux le Vicomte.

If there is only one day trip you can make, you must see Vaux le Vicomte.  While everyone goes to Versailles, and the throngs of tourists attest to it, Vaux le Vicomte is a bit harder to get to, but well worth the slight effort.

There is the slower RER-D train that takes about 50 minutes, or the faster one-stop train to Melun that leaves from the Gare de Lyons that takes less than  30 minutes.  The train ticket costs about 8.10 Euro one way, and then one takes a taxi from the train station to the Vaux le Vicomte.  (Going there costed us 22.50, returning costed us 27.50)

It really is not that hard or complicated to do.  One can also take one of the tours as well.

No matter how you do it, you ought to go.

On its own, Vaux le Vicomte is a must see.  But what adds so much more are the stories that swirl around it.

Step back in time, young Louis the XIV is a child, a regent king.  There is friction between the Nobles and the Monarchy as well as between Parliament and the Monarchy.  Over a 5 year period a series of civil wars break out called La Fronde.  Young Louis’ advisors continually reminded him that the Nobles are not to be trusted, and that they want to steal from the King.

One Noble, the minister Nicolas Fouquet, was a loyal supporter of the King during La Fronde, and was instrumental for saving the government from going bankrupt.  He was born into wealth, and amassed even more during his career.

 

He bought a piece of property outside of Paris.  Already one of the greatest patron of the arts at the time, Fouquet hired three amazing artists, along with many others.  The architect Le Vau, the gardener Le Notre, and the painter Le Brun.  As well as the Chef Gerard Depardieu.  No actually it was Vatel, but there is a delightful movie called “Vatel” with Gerard Depardieu that I will later suggest you see.

The three worked very closely together, and as a result created a unified spectacular creation that was Vaux le Vicomte.  With its creation, the French Garden was more or less created, and then spread across Europe.  In the past, a table to eat was brought out wherever people happened to be, but it is here, that a room was set aside to dine in, and thus the Dining Room was created.

 

Court intrigue always existed, and it existed here as well.  Colbert not only envied Fouquet, and sought after his position, he was intent on destroying Fouquet, and having the King’s ear, placed doubts of Fouquet’s loyalty and honesty.  Fouquet on his part, being so loyal and more or less saving the country from bankruptcy had hoped to be made head of government.  

When the head of government Mazarin died, King Louis XIV astounded the court by stating that he would be his own chief advisor.  Without being accountable to parliament or anyone, Absolute Monarchy was being created.

Fouquet should have noted the approaching storm clouds.  Perhaps he thought his loyal and illustrious record would keep him in the King’s favor.

In any case, in August of 1661, Fouquet was going to host the King.  He was excitedly nervous, but his fate had already been decided a few months earlier.

They arrived at the entrance of a spectacular house.  The three arched entrances had grills allowing one to see right through the house to the spectacular gardens behind, with the statue of Hercules in the distance.


 

 

 

They toured the magnificent house.
  Wonderful paintings, exquisite furniture, sumptuous wall hangings, even the King did not live in such luxury.  Stepping outside the geometric gardens was a feast for the eyes.  Fountains everywhere, the entourage walked down the central path towards the Grotto and Statue of Hercules.  Squeals of delight erupt as they discover that there is another lower level of gardens that could not at first be seen.  And as the walk towards the Grotto and Statue of Hercules, they seem to recede even further as another level is again is exposed.

Fireworks, a play by Moliere add to it all.

Fouquet goes to bed the happiest man in the world.  But is soon arrested by D’Artagnan (of three musketeers’ fame) and is imprisoned for the rest of his life next to the Man in the Iron Mask.

The King takes most of the furniture, artwork and tapestries, along with Le Brun, Le Notre and Le Vau, and creates what will become Versailles.

The story of Vaux le Vicomte after the arrest of Fouquet, almost being lost on numerous occasions and saved in the nick of time is a lovely story as well, but I will let you look elsewhere for it.

Suffice it to say, it is not over the top opulence, and it actually feels that it was a “home.”  Grand and illustrious, it is not pretentious.  It is, a piece of art in its own right.  A work that you must see.

Movies to see include "Vatel"   with Gerard Depardieu and “"Man In The Iron Mask"   with DiCaprio.


Photographer's note: Photos in this particular blog day are a mixture of images I have shot in 2004 with a Canon 10D and in 2014 during this second visit with Lumix GH2. 

 

Oh La La! We Are In Paris... Our Day Nine... by Montreal photographer Hera Bell and her husband Anthony

 

 

We decided to head back today where we were last week, the Marche des Enfants Rouges.  Today we were not going there to shop, but to try out some food from a Moroccan food stall that we had seen the last time here.

Late Sunday morning and the streets were packed with shoppers hustling and bustling to get their fresh produce.  We got ourselves into line, as we pondered on what we were going to order.

Hera settled on the Chicken Brochette Couscous, while I went for the Chef’s special, a mix of chicken, lamb, hot sausage and kefta, a type of meat ball.  We also ordered a red and green pepper salad, and a sweet syrupy dessert made with semolina with dates within.  The meal was delicious.  
 

We had planned on not seeing many museums on this trip, as we have already seen most of them a few times already in the past.  They are all wonderful, and must be seen.  I am sure I would enjoy each and everyone of them if we entered them again.  With the Pompidou center always in our face, we just had to enter and visit.  

 

It is in a way an ugly building and an lovely building at the same time.  Some love it, others hate it, while I feel the tension of the love-hate sentiments.  And it fits so well with the work it contains, modern art.  The works also parallel that feeling.  Some pieces I love, others I do not at all, while many works seem to fall on that odd line in between.

We ended up staying in our neighborhood, and wandered the streets.  Hera bought a shawl-like jacket in one boutique.  Soon it was time for a rest, so we found a pub this time and had a beer.  Savoring our refreshing beer, we chatted and people watched.  

The days go by way too fast.


Photographer's notes: Today's entire photography was shot with a Samsung Galaxy SII cell phone. Sorry for the delay uploading the rest of the trip. We have few more days to upload. Thank you for your patience.

Oh La La! We Are In Paris... Our Day Four... by Montreal photographer Hera Bell and her husband Anthony

We intended to try out another nearby bakery for their take on macarons.  Around the corner and perhaps and a block away, we found it, but alas it is closed on Tuesdays.  We’ll give it a try another day.

Since we arrived, for some reason Hera’s cell and tablet would not connect in our apartment.  She had no problem with her cell in various cafes and bistros that all offer free Wi-Fi (pronounced “wee-fee” in France).  This had perturbed the friendly and very helpful Landlady,  and since she could not resolve it, she said she would call in a technician today for us.  So we did not venture too far.

 

A bit hungry, Hera felt like having a Falafel at what is reputedly the best falafel joint in Paris called  L'As du Fallafel .  We had been here in our last visit and the there is always a line up, reminiscent of Schwartz's in Montreal.   Today we were lucky, only a few people ahead of us.  The place is hustling and bustling, but the staff are friendly and courteous.

 

 

 

 

 

 



The Falafel was excellent.  Is it the best I ever had?  We Montrealers are indeed spoiled.  This is the oldest falafel place in Paris opening in 1979, and it has only been in the past 15 years or so have so many falafel and shawarma joints opened up in Paris.  So much so that we almost did not recognize the old Paris on our last visit in 2005.

 

Well fed, we walked the streets of the Marais, and were soon at Place des Vosges.  On our second day, we had been here and sampled a piece of a macaron that a salesgirl was offering.  So we decided to head over to Cafe Pouchkine.

 

 

While definitely French, it seems that macarons have become so popular everywhere.  Weddings are using the tasty treats as decorative items, and shops everywhere here are now selling them.
 

We decided on three different ones, and headed over to a park bench in Place des Vosges to sample our treats.  Once again, they were delicious.  I prefer these, which seemed lighter and not as sweet.  But I can see that at connoisseur might disagree.  The other was very buttery and filling, probably how an excellent macaron should be.  But our North American palate does have a preference for lighter fare.

 

 

On our way again we continued walking eastward and arrived at our once familiar landmark, Place de la Bastille.  In 2005 our apartment was just a block away.  We spied a Brasserie that we had adopted back then as a watering hole, the streets where we did our groceries, when soon our telephone rang.  The Landlady’s technician might be early, so we headed back home.

 

While we did get Hera’s cell and tablet to finally connect, it is still puzzling why there was the problem in the first place.  

 

 

Heading back out, we walked along some of the grand boulevards in the general direction of the Opera House.  Paris has many quiet park areas, that is sorely missed in Montreal.  Seeing the entrance to the Palace Royal grounds, I sat at a fountain while Hera scampered about taking photos.

 

 

 

 

After a short break we were back on our way.  Many streets have very obvious names.  We turned left onto Avenue de l’Opera, and of course up in the distance we could see the gorgeous Opera House looming in the distance like a jewel.

 

 

 

It was late, and it was closed, but we will most likely return to enter it again as it is a gorgeous building.

 

 

But not to be disappointed, Les Galeries Lafayette is just around the corner and it was open.  Even if you do not want to buy a designer item, even I feel it is worth a visit.  Walk towards the center and the ceiling opens up to a huge spectacular cupola.  

 

We ended up doing a bit of shopping in the area, and then started to head back home.  We started on our way, then decided to take the Metro instead.

I have mentioned this in previous trips, it is always essential to learn and feel comfortable with the local transit system.  A tourist in Paris has two major choices.  Simply buy a carnet of 10 tickets, or buy a weekly pass.  You can take photos conveniently for your passes at many Metro stations, and we actually brought our own photos from home.  But in the end we decided not to buy a weekly pass, and simply use a ticket when needed.

Hopping onto the metro, a quick transfer to a second line, and soon we exited just half a block away from our apartment.  We were home.  Time to relax with some wine and food.