Bargello Museum Where Scupltures Come Alive

It was supposed to be a very rainy day today. While it did pour heavily overnight, we have been very fortunate, and the skies were clear by morning.

We walked a bit, and I showed Hera a small plaque that we had walked by several times, but had not noticed. It showed the water level of the horrible flood that Florence suffered in 1966 when the Arno over flowed its banks. It is hard to imaging the water level being so high. Flooding so much, and then leaving loads of mud once the waters receded. Imagine the art that was damaged or lost. Imagine the hardships for the people living here.

I had been saving the Bargello museum for a rainy day, as it was only a few steps from our apartment. But with our trip soon coming to an end, we decided not to wait any longer.

The Bargello was built in 1255, and was the original seat of government for Florence, then later used as a prison. It would be worth a visit for the architecture alone, but the real treasures are the sculptures that it holds, along with other art as well.

Unlike a painting, that is looked at head on, sculpture is a more holistic experience. The material it is made of, its size, and most importantly, how it looks from various angles. Walking around a great sculpture, one can see it move. It comes alive.

Many will not know Giambologna's name, but most will recognize his statue of Mercury, that many other artists made replicas of. (photography was not allowed inside of the museum)

Also held at the museum are the orginal entries by Ghiberti and Brunelleschi as they competed for the Baptistry's doors. Both are excellent, and I would find it hard to pick one over the other.

What I most appreciated in the museum was the four seperate sculptures of David, that showed the evolution as well as the interconnections of the various artists over a couple of generations.

We first see Donatello's early David, who has a classical and impersonal feel. The young Donatello, an apprentice of Ghiberti, was sculpting in a Gothic style, but soon started to break away from his Master, and started to sculpt in a more realistic and dimensional manner.

Twenty years later, Donatello's second David, is a complete person. An individual with delicate features, perhaps too delicate, almost feminine. But this is the David that Michelangelo would admire as he grew up in the Medici's court.

The next generation's Master sculpture was Verrochio, better know as Leonardo Da Vinci's teacher. He created what I find to be the most realistic David. The nimble shepherd boy who slew the giant. Verrochio's David looks light, boyish and real.

Michalangelo has one of his early unfinished David's here. Good, but nowhere as powerful as the iconic David that everyone knows.

All too often, we see art in isolation. And artists separated from the world they lived in. But seeing pieces together, and realizing how one generation of teachers taught and influenced the next, makes it all come alive.

A museum not to be missed.

Photographer's note: I have done the entire shoot with my Lumix 20mm 1.7mm prime lens. A fantastic lens. I used it usually at 2.8mm or 1.7mm on manual mode setting.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

We Continue Exploring Florence

There are a few gems in Florence that close their doors early.

When we travel, we do like to take our time. Usually we have a long slow brunch with various local cheeses, meats, tomotoes drenched in delicious Olive Oil, that we then mop up with some fresh bread. Of course we enjoy a good cafe with this.

We then tend to stroll the streets slowly, as we take in the feel of the streets and the people walking about. Nibbling here and there during the day.

Today, we changed our regular pattern, as we wanted to get to two of these sites that we kepted walking by, only too late.

One gem that closes early, is the Museum of Precious Stones. We had previously seen phenomenally gorgeous table tops and images of inlaid marble at the Pitti Palace. The Museum gives one a deeper appreciation of this type of work, and how it was made.

In laid table tops, pieces of alters, are all amazing. While so much was beautiful, what I trully appreciated were the oil paintings that were made as templates for the images to be created out of inlaid stone. And sitting next to the painting, is the inlaid image whose colours are so vibrant, and seem to glow.

Various slabs of lovely stone are exhibited, each on its own would make a great table top. To imagine that artists would select a particular shade from a particular stone, carve it precisely, and then add it to an inlaid image they were constructing is hard to believe. It is basically "painting with stone."

Nor is any one piece the work of a single artist. Instead, each piece is the work of several virtuoso experts, working in concert, to produce a single wonderful piece of art.

The Midici's loved this form of art, and it flourished. Even after the Medici's, they flourished for generations until the end of the Austrian Hapsburg-Lorraine family centuries later. No longer sponsored, they had to rely on being commercial, offering tables for a bourgeois class. While still excellent, one can see the pieces being less intricate, less complex, to keep the cost affordable for the buyer.

Many argue that the state should not be involved in sponsoring the arts. Let the free market decide. I can see their point, and there are too many examples of huge amounts of money being wasted on very questionable endeavors.

But art does not pay. Great art is not commercial. And without a patron, much of our great art of today would never have been created.

Just a few steps away, was a restaurant Hera and I had often passed by. With the hearty brunches we usually ate, we were too full to drop by at lunch, and by mid afternoon, they were closing shop. You can recognize a good restaurant, because it tends to be busy with many locals and few tourists.

As I mentioned above, today we decided to leave before our usual hearty brunch, so by 2 pm, we were ready for a good lunch.

"La Mescita Fiaschetteria" is really a small hole in the wall at Via deglia Alfani 70 r. There since 1927, Mirco and the two Allesios continue the resturant's tradition of serving delicious foods, at very reasonable prices, just around the corner from the Accademia and David.

We shared the small table with two gentlemen. They were finishing off their pasta plate along with a half litre of the house wine while we waited to order. We were not sure if someone would come to our table, or if we had to order at the counter. They noticed our uncertainty, and motioned with their hands.... "slow." Sit and wait.

Delicious looking plates of tripe were served to them, when the waiter asked for our orders.

Hera decided on the Penne Tartufo con funghi which was superb. I had decided on their Rigatoni, but by the time we were seated, it was scratched off their menu board. Gathering a bit of courage, I settled on the Tripa Florentina. I never had tripe before, but alas, when I ordered, I was told it too was all finished. The waiter suggested I have their Ragu, which was indeed excellent. Perfected cooked pasta, in a meat sauce that had subtle and delicious flavours

We ordered a half liter of their house wine, which we surmised was a medium but good quality Chianti. However, it went perfectly with our meals. Any wine of higher quality, would compete with the dishes we were having.

As we ate our meal, we slowly got to know the Pasquale and Joe. Neither spoke any English, but we managed, and had a great time. The 67 year old Pasquale worked at a nearby hotel, and Joe, who came from China as a child, runs a Japanese-Thai restaurant. We laughed and joked as we enjoyed our meals.

For dessert, we tried their Cantucci and Vin Santo. Delicious, but we did notice how the Vin Santo was different from the one we had the week before.

Pasquale and Joe were having a generous portion of cheese, and had ordered a very good bottle of Chianti, and offered us a glass. We had to take a small sip, and wash the the flavours of the Vin Santo to really appreciate the Chianti he offered us. It was exquisite, and I am sure it went perfectly with the cheese they ordered.

They offered us another glass, but we declined. The people of Florence are truly friendly people. But you also have to be "open" to others as well. Otherwise the pleasantries might stop with polite smiles after a short word or two.

As we left, there was a light rain falling, but that adds a different dimension to the streets of Florence.

In our rain jackets, we felt very comfortable as we walked, watching the tourists. We commented to each other that even though we were still tourists, we no longer felt like tourists. Feeling very comfortable with the streets of Florence.

Florence, and its people are very charming. Rain or shine, it is a delightful city.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera

Discovering The Tuscan Country Side

Today we were off to see the Tuscan country side.

While we had a glimpse of the Tuscan landscape as we took the bus to Siena, to really get the chance to feel and experience the country, you need to rent a car.

It is important to get an international driver's license before leaving home. It takes just a few minutes and only costs $15 at the CAA/AAA, and is good for a year. I usually get one even if I do not plan on driving, just in case I change my mind.

You do not want a car in large cities like Florence, nor do you need them for other fair sized places like Siena which one can easily buy inexpensive bus or train tickets, but to have the freedom to explore at your own pace and whim requires a car.

It is probably best to rent a car before leaving home, but yesterday we easily were able to book a car for today. We had been promised a map, but I should have bought one on my own, as the one they gave us was for the whole of Italy. Usually one can buy a good large scale map at a gasoline station, but being Sunday, they had no attendants, and thus we were left with no good map of our own.

My advice, would be to avoid touring on Sundays. Not only are most stores closed, but so are all the Tourist Information booths you will pass by on your trek.

We had told the attendant at the car rental agency that we did not want to travel on the highway, but to remain on the small roads. He suggested that as we left the environs of Florence, to look for and head towards the town of Impruneta.

At least that had us on a small road, and we kepted looking for small towns and just headed in their direction.

Fortuitously, we stopped to look at our map, and looking up noticed we were at the entrance to Castello di Verrazzano, one of the wines we had sampled at WineTown. We followed the narrow winding road up the hill, as we gazed upon vista after vista of wonderful sights. (http://www.verrazzano.com/)

But, being Sunday, unfortunately it was closed. Although closed, the aroma of crushed grapes permeated the air. We walked around the grounds, and Hera took several photos of the grounds and the views.

We made our way back down the mountain road, and got back onto our small winding country road, and headed towards the towns of Greve in Chianti then Castelina in Chianti. We were deep in the heart of Chianit region. The views are nothing but stunning, rolling hills covered in vineyards, and even in the car, we would get the occaissional whiffs of crushed grapes as we drove.

The road took us to Siena, a town we had recently visited. Lovely, but we wanted to remain in the country. I had to ask directions to get me out of Siena, but we were soon back onto a small country road, heading south towards Asciano.

Equally beautiful, this region, so close to the Chianti region we were in, is so completely different. Instead of vineyards, the rolling hills were recently plowed. At times, we would come across an unplowed feilds of sunflowers past their prime. This place must have been spectacular a couple of months early when the sunflowers were all lush and full.

Although we were close to the world famous Chiana beef region, our sights were on the small town of Montacino. The place were the exceptional wines of Brunello di Montalcino are made.

Once again we followed a narrow windy road up the mountain to the hilltop fortress of Montacino, and parked our car. We walked about the small town, and though I hesitated, the lovely touristy wine bar in a delightful setting seduced me.

We ordered a sample of their wines, along with a plate of cheese and cold cuts. We tasted 5 of their Brunello wines including their Cerbaiona 2005, Elia Cru 2004, Conti Costanti Riserva 2004, Santa Caterina D'Oro Ciacci Piccolomini Riserva 2004, and their Soldena Riserva 2004.

All impressive wines, but both Hera and I were disappointed by them. They were good, but both the aromas and tastes were way too subdued for such wines. Nor was the tasting inexpensive, but it was a touristy place we were sitting at.

As we walked about the small town, we decided to walk into a small wine shop. We were greeted very warmly and asked if we would like to try some of their wines. She even opened a bottle of one that we were curious about, poured a generous sample, and we tasted the Brunello's that we were used to. A full wonderful nose, and a complex full bodied taste. We ended buying 2 bottles of their Bartoli Giusti 2003, and their 2003 Riserva. While they can age another 10-15 years, I doubt they will survive the next couple of days. (http://www.bartoligiusti.it/)

Time flies way too fast. We could drive and drive in this captivating countryside, but we had to head back home. Tired, we opted for the highway.

It was a delightful day. Full of sights, smells and tastes. Now it was time, to settle down and rest a bit.

Cheeers,

Anthony & Hera

Second Day Of "Wine Town Firenze" 2010

Today was another gorgeous sunny day.

We headed towards the Mercato Centrale, where it seemed there was an exhibit called "Innovation:Wine Camp."

As we walked there, we came across a hotel called Montreal and Mary's Place, and had to take some photos for home.

The Mercato is always fun to visit, and today was no different. But unfortunately, the "Wine Camp" was on a break for lunch, and we learned, it was more of a discussion in Italian on wines.

At least that saved us from walking across town to another discussion venue, and instead, we started to meander back into town.

For those who like to shop, there are no streets in Florence that does not have interesting boutiques that catches the eye. Hera found a lovely black knit jacket with mink accents and picked it up.

Food shops are also to be found everywhere. At Via Sant'Antonino 23/r we found Il Cantuccio, where for 2 Euros, we bought a bag of best biscotti that Hera and I ever tasted. Fresh, and supple, with hints of oranges, nuts and chocolates. If you are in the area, it is defintely worth finding and tasting.

Earlier in our trip we had come across an empty but charming Piazza Annunziata. Today the square was bustling with people, filled with stalls selling various items and foods. Picking up some food, we walked amongst the stalls.

WineTown had an exhibit for children called "Vinopoli: Wine Explained to Children." We saw some crates of various grapes, groups of children, and what looked like a large life-sized monopoly board. How the game was played, I am not sure, but I do not see a "wine game" for children back home. I guess we are too uptight when it comes to wine.

At one stall, we recognized some wines that we had seen back home. Francesco Sorelli cheerfully explained the various wines that Ruffino produces (http://www.ruffino.com/) All the wines were exceptional, and his guidance was educational, and helped us appreciate the wines all the more.

Later in the day, we came across another stall, this one showcasing the Monteregio di Massa Marittima region. Wines of smaller producers, that are not exported. Once again, we were pleasantly guided by Barbara Simi as she shared her enthusiasm for wine, and enjoying life in general.

As we conversed and tasted the wines, a couple from Texas joined us. They asked us our opinion on the wines, and the conversation expanded. Part of the joy of wine tasting is this sharing. We all taste and experience things differently, but by voicing our opinions and listening to others, it add depth and richness to the experience.

Cheers,

Anthony & Hera