What better way to brighten a day than with some exceptional pastries. Just over a block away was Pain Au Sucre . Reputed to be one of the better nearby pastry shops. We sat on the sidewalk table as we shared a delicious Baba Rum. The rum could definitely be tasted above the sweet syrup. Even though we shared it, it was so sweet, we could not try the four different macarons that we bought as well.
So with the macarons in a bag, we headed off towards the Seine. We ate them slowly one at a time as we walked. They were wonderfully buttery and creamy, each with their own unique flavour. And even though we shared each one, they were so sweet, we had to take our time with them.
We crossed over in front of Notre Dame Cathedral, where a Chinese couple were having their wedding pictures taken. The church is a central landmark in Paris, and I am sure we will cross in front of it many more times to come.
We decided to spend some time walking along the lower walkway along the Seine. A worthwhile endeavor as it does give a different perspective. Not only is it a different visual vantage point, but being lower than the street away from the cars, it adds to the sense of what Paris might have felt like in the past.
Walking off Ile de la Cite, we meandered along some of the smaller streets that used to characterize Paris before these medieval streets were ripped away to be replaced by the modern, now classical, Parisian Grand boulevards.
And soon we exited the winding little streets, onto Boulevard St. Germain. We followed it then turned south along Boulevard Saint Michel. Both of these lovely large boulevards, are lined with boutiques, bistros and cafes. A great place to walk, and people watch.
It was a rainy day, and while we walked along the side of the Luxembourg Gardens, we decided not to enter it in case it poured.
We kept walking south, and Boulevard St. Michel falls onto Avenue General Leclerc. Several blocks further we turned onto Rue Daguerre. A pretty street, lined with restaurants, and closed food stalls. We were not sure at first if the food stalls were closed because of the time of day, it was already around 3 pm, or because of the rain. A quick search gave us the real reason, the lively food market here is open from Tuesday to Saturday, today was Monday. Oh well.
But that is no reason not to enjoy ourselves. So we found a corner bistro and sat outside. We each had a glass of wine, shared a Croque Monsieur and chatted away.
Rested, we continued on with our walk. We walked along Montparnasse Cemetery. We did not take a map and search out the notables like Jean Paul Sartre and de Beauvoir, but we did come across Paul Picasso. Again, doing a quick search did reveal that he was indeed Pablo’s son.
If you have the time, the cemetery is a peaceful and pretty. A pleasant place to walk, that is typically Parisian, but completely different than the regularly tourist walks. And if you are interested, a map can be obtained when entering listing the notables and where they are laid to rest.
As we walked towards home, we came across Montparnasse Tower. It had a skyline view, and while pricey at 14.50 Euros a piece, we decided to give it a try. The elevator ride up is exceptionally fast, and the views are amazing. Definitely worth the price.
Being a rainy day, a haze obstructed the view to some extent, but we were in no rush. We looked and watched, ordered some wine and enjoyed the views. It was 7 pm, and the views would be spectacular when the lights went on, but that would happen at 10, and we could not see ourselves staying another 3 hours more.
Walking back towards the Seine, we took rue de Rennes. Haussmann originally planned this street to continue right to the Seine. Fortunately it stopped just shy of Saint Germain des Pres, allowing the church to remain on cobble stoned streets. I sometimes wonder how much more charming Paris might have been had these modern boulevards not bulldozed through such old neighborhoods. But then again, it would not be the Paris we know today either.
It was getting late as we wandered through the grounds of the Louvre. I can imagine the uproar there must have been when someone suggested pyramids be placed as skylights. I think I too might have protested as well, but the modern pyramids fit so well within the grand complex.
We were getting tired as we made our final leg towards home. In the distance we could see the Pompidou Center, a bitter sweet sight. We were getting closer to home, but still had a distance to traverse.
